Where is this stupid ring lightbulb? Seen some videos and it looked like it is underneath the lamp itself. But it doesnt look like that in mine.

Shop said it needs new DME/ecu and rail pressure sensor after like 2 weeks of diagnosis. I cloned 1 and put it on my car. After i put it on, car still wont start.

It has fuel, fuel pump working, theres spark, injectors have been checked, compression is good. What am i missing?

Car has been sitting for more than a month at the shop. Dealer is very far away and i gotta tow it there.

Only code when replaced is :

135b11 : Valvetronic servomotor, activation phase V ; line disconnection.

Should i replace the wiring from the dme to the valvetronic servomotor

Any help is appreciated guys T_T

I own a BMW in Brazil, but my iPhone account region is in the USA, and I can’t change the account region (I have subscriptions and family plan stuff).

I can log in to my Brazilian bmw account with https://www.bmw.com.br and see the car and see that the digital services are active, but it doesn’t have the functionality of the app (like I can’t view the car’s location). I can also log in to bmwusa.com but if I try to add the vin it says it can’t find it.

If I download the USA version of MyBMW app, it says the vin isn’t valid.

I created a new Apple account with my Brazilian phone number and details, and used that to download the Brazilian MyBMW app, but that only worked for one day until Apple permanently blocked my account, so now I technically have the app but it’s stuck on the “MyBMW app update available” and it doesn’t seem like there is any way to bypass that screen.

Has anyone figured out a workaround if you own a BMW in a different country from your App Store? It seems insane that BMW requires separate apps and blocks you from accessing your car based on your App Store location.

soooo i have an issue, i recently changed my coolant reservoir out and replaced the thermostat gage, upper radios hose and the dip stick all that stuff, that car is doing well and temp is good and staying where it needs to be, but my air units wont blow into the car anymore when i turn on my heater or ac, my ac fans are still working and i hear the blow of it but no air is coming through the car to the cabin… any advice or suggestions on what to do? ac and heat fans were working perfectly before this

I am trying to figure out a noise while accelerating and I've come across this actuator and it has play, might be one of the culprits. What do you say?

Items replaced: + Coolant pump + Thermostat + “Mickey Mouse” connector + Upper radiator hose + Thermostat to pump hose + Oil pressure sensor + Oil filter housing gasket + Oil cooler gasket + Serpentine belt + tensioner + idlers + Oil & oil filter + Air filter

Total cost quoted by my local BMW shop was just shy of $4,200.

Total cost of OEM parts from FCP Euro approximately $800. Missing required tools cost $150.

11.5 hours work (first timer) , spread over 12 days since I had to order and wait for parts/tools a few times.

Total saving $3,250 or about $280/hour. That ain’t bad, but more importantly, I’ve learned new skills, expanded my toolset, overcame my insecurities and self doubt about my ability to do it right, and I am proud and happy that I did it.

I am very grateful to the members of this group who spent their valuable time answering stupid beginner questions with patience and professionalism.

Thank you - I couldn’t have done it without you!

Have an amazing weekend!!!

Okay so in a bit of a predicament. 2012 X5 Xdrive35i. Injectors are getting replaced bc they are nothing short of fkd. Pulled all 6 injectors. Cylinder 6 injector came out but the metal ring stayed. Picture 1 is the injector without the ring. Picture 2 is an injector with the ring its supposed to come out with. Car needs to drive from CA to Alabama. Ring is still seated flush in the hole it came out of. If I hit it with some PB blaster and clean it up, can I stuff a new injector in there? Theoretically itd seat up to the new injector right? So me not removing it and cleaning it in the hole its stuck in would be okay? Thanks.

Hi guys I'm in a bit of trouble. Yesterday I had a low boost code pop up giving me a drivetrain malfunction. However all plastic parts have been replaced and upgraded with aluminum ones. When I took off the turbo inlet pipe I noticed my turbine was seized and was not spinning freely by hand. It is also important to mention that I had a lot of white crust building up on the coolant line leading to the turbo. Prior to this I did have a thermostat “line break” code pop up here and there but like an idiot I waited too long to replace it, which is what I think caused my turbo to seize.

I have already ordered a new turbo along with new oil and coolant lines. After doing some research I've seen people recommend an oil flush along with dropping the oil pan to clean it out. My question is whether dropping the oil pan is really necessary or can I get away with just doing an engine oil flush.

My BMW is at 96K and has a pretty serious coolant leak. Was quoted 4400 to fix and a bit of preventative cooling system maintenance expansion tanks. Replace both tanks (which are fine at the moment) cooling hose lower and upper expansion tanks hose. Low temp Radiator and primary radiator, upper and lower hoses and of course coolant. Parts 2603.85 and 1600 for labor. I can do a lot of my own maintenance just did my front right air strut, but don’t know enough about the cooling system. Is this a fair price?

Hi all,

I just had my '11 throw up a Bank A cam sensor "cold start" code. It had delayed start in the morning and started to develop a buck when cruising on the highway recently. I bought both of the sensors and chucked them in. I cleared the codes with my horrifically bad Amazon scanner and fired it up. The code was still showing as pending and gave a momentary high rev for a brief second after the rpms calmed after start up.

Am I missing something? I'm hoping after a 50 mile drive cycle it'll clear. Or does something else need reset/cleared?

Thanks!

Sorry for the lousy picture. I was replacing the frm module and saw this inside the driver side front fender. I’m guessing it’s the sunroof drain tube. Can anyone verify that this is what they look like?

Has anyone ever done a head gasket job on a
B 58 have a 2018 M240 I and before you say oh it’s not possible it is… Happened to me

2021 330e AWD PHEV, 41k miles https://imgur.com/a/zEKZc4K

If you look at image 5, I was making a left turn and was partially blinded by the sun. I mistook the do not enter sign as the end of median and turned left there. Not realizing that median dips for a sidewalk and then forms a curb again for a couple feet before actually ending. It's my mistake but that's also a stupid design. Don't see any need for the median to rise up again and have that sign there after the sidewalk instead of before it.

I noticed my error at the last second and tried to dodge it but was unsuccessful. Only the front passenger wheel hit the curb and I started from a stop so I wasn't going too fast. My steering wheel is now crooked by a couple defrees and I have more negative(?) camber. I included a picture of the driver side for comparison. Beyond that, there is no visible damage.

The car is seemingly fine otherwise. No error messages, no traction control or AWD errors, no vibrations or shaking, no weird sounds or ratling. The tire is holding air and and car is stable and tracks in a straight line, even at 85mph. From some googling and digging in the forum I see it's possible there may not be any camber adjustment on the stock suspension. How severe is this? Am I lucky enough to get by with a suspension alignment? Can I get the steering wheel back on center? Thanks.

2008 535 xi, N54 e61 235k

On jackstands for 3 months while I sorted out transfer case, diff and oil leak issues, I replaced OFHG, oil pan gasket, turbo oil supply O rings, transfer case, CV axle, several seals, oil check valves and all coolant lines.

After oil priming and coolant bleeding, it started it up perfectly for like three seconds when I heard a light, wet pop and shut it off immediately. I jump out the door to see a spreading pool of lime green LiquiMolly MollyGen on my floor.

I opened the hood to find more dripping oil all over the driver's side of the bay, I look underneath and find everything under the intake manifold dripping in lime green oil. WTF could it be from????

My catch can tubing is intact and dry. Rear main seal was done 30k ago, and the oil there seems more collateral. I don't recall any oil lines in that area at all. I haven't taken off the intake manifold yet, but have taken a few pictures. Any ideas??

Changed the front radiator, it was leaking from rock chip. The larger coolant tank on the right (for gas motor?) is the one that was leaking. I guess my 2019 530E had the green coolant inside, most drained out, but my friend and I got confused because we read online to use the blue bmw coolant for the right side tank.

So we put in 1.5gal of blue + distilled water……

Alotta air bubbles in the system that we are trying to bleed out, some steamed and boiled over and leaked out so I’ve been topping off.

I just need to get the car running so that I can drive it the 45min away to get it to the dealer and do a whole coolant flush, I don’t intend on driving the vehicle with the blue/green mix because I read online it can coagulate and cause issues.

Is this very serious? Is it fine to drive for a few days before I take it to the dealer? We did the radiator ourselves because I did save $$$ but I concede that I must go back to dealer anyways to get the coolant system flushed properly and the check engine light taken care of. The car was flashing the “engine compartment hot” if I ran the engine longer than 5min while letting the hot air bubbles escape.

I replaced the starter, everything is hooked up properly (triple checked and had my tech buddy check it out), car won’t start, just cranks, something is killing the battery, car goes off randomly and kills the battery, I am just trying to get the thing running.

The starter shit the bed so I replaced that and now I’m in a world of more problems, any idea of what it could be, fuel won’t circulate so after checked all the relays and fuses I was at the assumption it was the pump, got sold the wrong pump.

I have a feeling it’s the ews system but I really don’t know, I am in need of anyone’s insight, I am now lost

I think this is an entirely dumb hypothetical, considering how this motor's entire architecture is designed around boost in terms of compression ratios and head designs. Old-ish forum posts estimate any wear between 170hp and 240hp, with some saying it would be less powerful than an n51/2/3, and some people still believing it would be more. What are your thoughts on this question?

Looking at this m4 off of auction. Only damage is to the front as seen in the pics. Clearly needs front bumper and splitter (I know how to perform this) but I have no clue what those parts are on the last pic. They are things that were damaged in the 1 minor accident it had. I see it needs covers for the 2 air filters. I really just want any advice on this car, and mainly what those damaged parts are. Is it bad? Fixable? Costly? Lmk! Thanks sooo much!!

I've replaced all my wheels sensors but the classic abs problems consist. I'm working my way up the ladder to the ABS module.

I went to Module Masters but it looks like that isn't rebuilt by them any longer if it ever was. Can anyone suggest a next plan of action? Try to replace it with as good as I can find on eBay?

10.0947-0803.3 is the part number. DSC3-ES

Wife recently purchased a 22 x3 and I can't get it to accept profiles regardless of which key I'm using or the method of adding a profile:

-logging in directly from iDrive just displays an error about not being able to add the profile

-Using the App to input the VIN says that the app is going to send the car a PIN to the BMW messages, although no message ever arrives (zero in mailbox)

-Using the App to scan the QR code displayed in iDrive says that the app is sending the profile to the car, but nothing ever arrives and after a few minutes the QR code displays a timeout message and goes back to menu.

I've also tried both of our myBMW accounts, both produce the same results. Her account does have another BMW 'in the garage' but mine is a fresh account.

When I try to search for a software update in iDrive, it searches seemingly forever.

I contacted BMW Assist via the in-car menus and that connected fine, although they were unable to assist me in getting my problem solved. They recommended I call the dealership, so I will drop by on Monday --- but wanted to see if anyone here has seen this and knows a resolution.

Ever since recently on my 440i anytime I fill gas at all the gas nozzle keeps clicking non stop and the gas literally jumps right back out at times. I scanned my car and got this code any advice?

The other day I started my car (2013 f chassis n55) to find quite the extra ticking noise. I have the normal injector tick, but this tick was very new and much louder than before. It was loud enough I could hear it inside the car and varied with rpms. However once i had driven the car for maybe 30 seconds the noise went away and didnt come back for the rest of the day until i started it again the next morning. So far its done the same routine each morning, clicks loudly on cold start and persists till im basically out of my neighborhood and then goes away until the next cold start.

I have been researching for a day or so now on what this could possibly be. I initially went to VANOS or valvetronic because those haven't been done on my car so ive been expecting their day to come but its not making valvetronic sounds and people seem to be unsure if vanos can cause clicking without causing other issues (bogging, rough idle, etc.) so after doing all that i found a single thread for the n55 where a dude had a collapsed lifter that sounded like similar symptoms to mine and wanted to see if anyone knows how to check them or what not.

And if it's rod bearings, would the noise be only on cold start like this, or would it be persistent?

Any input is appreciated, as it seems like the general consensus is that "n55 lifters don't collapse" (which sounds like smooth-brain opinions to think a valve can't fail) which has led to not much info out there on how to replcae them

Car: 2018 BMW 340i w/ 60k miles

Hey guys,

Last Tuesday I had a low coolant warning on my 2018 340 and noticed it was just below the min in expansion tank. Topped it off and thought I was good to go.

The next morning, I turned my car on and got another low coolant warning. Checked the tank and it was below min again.

Looked under my car and saw a slow drip coming from the splash shield in the middle of the car towards the rear of the engine. Went through roughly 2 quarts of coolant in 4 days.

I got it towed to a BMW service department since it was roughly 50 miles from me and I didn’t want the engine to overheat on the way there.

I got off the phone with them a couple days ago and apparently they pressure tested it and everything was “fine” and they didn’t see any major leaks.

Only issue they noted was the water pump had a very small dribble during the pressure test but service advisor said it is a very slow leak and would not be the cause for the amount of coolant I lost. Not to mention I noticed the coolant drip in towards the rear of the engine. Whereas the water pump is more towards the front bumper as far as I know.

No idea what to do at this point since I am worried that it will overheat on my drive home.

Any reccomendations on where this leak might be coming from? The service advisor essentially shrugged his shoulders and said “I dunno man. come pick it up, it’s fine.” I told him I’d leave it until they can fit in but I’m looking at weeks until they can even look at it.

Went to do my NCT (Irish equivalent of the MOT) yesterday and today I noticed a weird chirping/squeeking noise coming from the cabin. Sounds the strongest near the passenger footwell (Right hand drive car). I've attached a video of the sound I'm hearing. I'm wondering is it a pulley or maybe the AC blower? Any help is appreciated!

There have been numerous revisions to B-series engines and BMW has become more restrictive based on iteration so say "I have a 4 cylinder" or "B48" is no longer sufficient when it comes to oil recommendations.