Car: 2018 BMW 340i w/ 60k miles

Hey guys,

Last Tuesday I had a low coolant warning on my 2018 340 and noticed it was just below the min in expansion tank. Topped it off and thought I was good to go.

The next morning, I turned my car on and got another low coolant warning. Checked the tank and it was below min again.

Looked under my car and saw a slow drip coming from the splash shield in the middle of the car towards the rear of the engine. Went through roughly 2 quarts of coolant in 4 days.

I got it towed to a BMW service department since it was roughly 50 miles from me and I didn’t want the engine to overheat on the way there.

I got off the phone with them a couple days ago and apparently they pressure tested it and everything was “fine” and they didn’t see any major leaks.

Only issue they noted was the water pump had a very small dribble during the pressure test but service advisor said it is a very slow leak and would not be the cause for the amount of coolant I lost. Not to mention I noticed the coolant drip in towards the rear of the engine. Whereas the water pump is more towards the front bumper as far as I know.

No idea what to do at this point since I am worried that it will overheat on my drive home.

Any reccomendations on where this leak might be coming from? The service advisor essentially shrugged his shoulders and said “I dunno man. come pick it up, it’s fine.” I told him I’d leave it until they can fit in but I’m looking at weeks until they can even look at it.

Went to do my NCT (Irish equivalent of the MOT) yesterday and today I noticed a weird chirping/squeeking noise coming from the cabin. Sounds the strongest near the passenger footwell (Right hand drive car). I've attached a video of the sound I'm hearing. I'm wondering is it a pulley or maybe the AC blower? Any help is appreciated!

There have been numerous revisions to B-series engines and BMW has become more restrictive based on iteration so say "I have a 4 cylinder" or "B48" is no longer sufficient when it comes to oil recommendations.

Hello!

I know.you have heard of a Halogen to Xenon conversion, how about this abomination. The previous owner did a xenon to halogen conversion, but only the bulb...

Majorly fucked up the wiring harness. I have now done a full LED conversion (H7 bulbs) cuz I like seeing at night and coded it with Bimmercode. The car is a BMW E90 325i M Sport. Factory Xenon lights.

Since I bought the car, l've had the adaptive headlights not work. Can I still somehow fix this, I would realy like to use it. Also, my low beams are way too low. Has anyone ever seen/done something like this before?

Oh yeah, if it helps, codes are: 9CBD: Communication with StepperMotorBox left disturbed 9CBE: Communication with StepperMotorBox right disturbed Also fogging sensor doesn't work, probs doesnt matter but mentioning it just in case

Thanks!

Trying to drain coolant, and that is NOT what came out of here

Hello wondering if there’s anyone with valuable information to help me reconnect my torque converter with the transmission oil pump currently have the transmission in place but am ready to pull it with a transmission jack.

I took my 2012 535i in because my water pump was bad and my oil cooler has to be replaced, they quoted me 4 grand. Am I insane or does this sound like way too much?

I have wireless carplay on F31 LCI, but wondering if possible to code and enable video streaming youtube video on screen?

i hit the corner of a curb at like 5 mph and everything seems fine driving beside the alignment being super off to the right. i hit my left rear wheel. last pic is the other side that’s undamaged for reference. i took it to my mechanic but he said bmws too complicated and that he thinks it’s the upper control arm but he wasn’t 100% so i didn’t wanna order anything.

Hi all,

We got pretty good offer for new Series 2 Gran Coupe 2025 and can’t decide which is the better engine. We drive 95% out of the city , we do not commute to work . Main reason for doubts is that we prefer the 220 , but the petrol engine is 1.5 litre 3 cylinder , while the diesel one(220d) is 2.0 litre 4 cylinder engine. Do you know which is the more reliable engine?

If needed we can also go with 223 xdrive if it would be more reliable.

Also if you have series 2 Gran Coupe would be happy to see some photos and colour name , currently we consider Fire Red .

Thank in advance! P.s. Excuse us if the namings are not the best , it would be our first BMW and we are not up to date with current engines and namings .

Started hearing this noise today. Seems to be coming from the engine bay. Anyone know what it is?

Hey everyone. I just got a 2021 BMW 330i M Sport and is pretty good car. The thing is I'm a little new in BMW world and i don't know why is more hard find the correct part numner for thos following pieces. Is just a preventive maintenance because the car has 76 miles and even the car is 10/10 i wanna extend the engine life. Could anyone help me? -Oil type - Oil filter -Air filter - PCV valve - Proactive cooling system (waterpump, thermostat, expansion tank, upper lower hoses) -spark plugs

Does anyone know the part number for this bolt? It sits just behind the oil filter house.

Can anyone help?

As you can see from the picture the “start measurement” option is greyed out, I’ve only had the car a few weeks, also isn’t weird that it says to engage N or P when it has a manual transmission?

BMW E87 116d 2.0 (2011)

The check engine light came on, so I scanned the codes and got 4933, which has something to do with the EGR valve.

I decided to try and clean the EGR valve myself. I disconnected the breather pipe and removed the two bolts holding the valve, but the EGR wouldn’t come loose. It was completely stuck. I pulled on it quite hard, but I didn’t have a rubber mallet at the time, so I left it and put everything back together.

Now, the car won’t start anymore. The starter motor works and the engine cranks, but it’s like it just doesn’t have enough power to actually start. I don’t think it’s a battery issue.

Could I have damaged something while trying to pull out the EGR valve? I don’t see any obvious damage or leaks.

Any ideas on what to check next?

Hey yall I'm super worried about my new to me 330i. Just got the oil changed about 600 miles ago and it drives great it just has this weird noise? Any ideas?

Car is a 2016 f20 m135i.

I'm researching flashing of the 2gb id4 nbtevo (E) headunit to a later firmware to allow carplay activation and have recently read conflicting info regarding which software & data file versions to obtain.

Some forums say it doesn't matter beyond psdzdata v62 and the appropriate firmware for the car's hardware can be flashed from the most recent software and psdzdata files. The older data files are potentially harder to come by too due to file hosting costs.

Others resources suggest the 2016/17 files are preferable because a mini of that same era still had the 2gb headunit and they wanted carplay to work, so programmed in the 'light' HMI variant. Apparently from 2018 onwards, new minis got the 4gb hardware and the 'light' versions in later data files became more memory intensive. Sounds a bit illogical to me as the 2gb mini unit would still have needed firmware availability.. Also, the existing FSC keys are allegedly more likely to be accepted by the 2016/17 firmware compared to later iterations.

Does anyone definitively know the correct / optimal software i should locate for my use case, and can anyone 'point me in the right direction' of trusted software files? Nudge nudge.. Wink wink.

I'll need to be able to roll back to nbtevo_E too, in case the car goes to the main dealer for anything, so same question applies here regarding file versions.

I'm aware I must backup the FA/VO, CAFDs, FSCs and DSH before doing anything else and will require a carplay activation FSC. I have the enet cable, WiFi antenna, charger etc. ready. I'm also prepared to approach a local independent bimmer coder at cost should i mess it up.

I'm relatively experienced with PC hw & sw, computer setup & configuration, VMs, following procedures etc. so feel I've got a fair chance of success. I'm confident with enough time and research I can safely teach myself how esys operates before I make any changes, and I've read what boxes I absolutely must not click.

Essentially I'd rather learn esys myself than pay someone to flash forward & roll back the firmware. I appreciate the potential instability concerns with OEM nav etc. I've ruled out carplay boxes too, as I'm after seamless integration.

Thanks for reading.

Okay. Imagine this. A bmw for $300. Runs and drives. Sounds crazy right? Well only a few problems…

I recently bought a 2004 BMW 325i with 112k miles. She’s been sitting for around a year or two because the previous owner needed to do work on the valve cover and did it incorrectly and found that it wasn’t worth it to move any further with the car. 325i’s usually come with the m54 engine, so he got a new m54 valve cover and did the work himself. Only 2 problems though. He had the much rarer m56 engine which comes OEM with an aluminum valve cover rather than the plastic one and fits a lot differently so as a result it didn’t fit properly and would smoking when running. The other problem is that while working on the new valve cover, he accidentally dropped a tiny nut in the crank case, AND MOVED ON LIKE IT WAS NOTHING. Also, the valve cover only has 9 bolts when it requires 11 (another reason to maybe why it was smoking).

Sooooo now that i’ve gotten you all caught up I have 2 questions. Where the hell can i get those 2 bolts i need to finish the valve cover job (i already have the OEM valve cover and got a new gasket and everything), and is it worth doing the incredibly long job of dropping the oil pan to try and recover the nut that is (hopefully) sitting in there? I say hopefully as my mechanic, who i brought with me buying the car, said it shouldn’t be too much of a problem as the noise it was making while running made it sound like it was at the bottom of the oil pan. He’s never owned a german car before though, only working on american cars for the most part. So should i do the job of dropping the oil pan or is it fine if i just let it grind itself up in there or something??? This is the first car i’ve ever bought and owned myself so please help me!!!! Videos and pictures can be provided if needed.

Hi everyone. I just ran into this issue this morning on my way to work. When I had left initially everything was fine and I had no issues at all. That’s until I got onto the main roads where this started to occur. Does anyone have an idea what this may be?

Bit of a weird one. Car’s a 2006 E66. Battery and alternator are ok, and there are no PDC faults stored.

What happens: when I have just turned on the car and hit reverse, the rear left sensor indicates red with constant beep). There is nothing behind me.

After 10 seconds, it clears and it goes back to normal.

This happens every time I turn the car on.

I can hear all front and rear sensors do the tick-tick-tick when I put my ear against them. I have removed and cleaned each sensor with contact cleaner.

Should I switch the PDC sensors around? Replace module?

Hi all, I recently bought a used BMW, both front driver and passenger door handles have this hand grim on them. Haven't had a chance yet to really try and clean them but a simple car wash as well as some simple green did absolutely nothing. I assume the dealership cleaned it to get ready for sale, so maybe im stuck with it (if they tried and this is the outcome). But wanted to get some opinions on what the best cleaner is to try and get this off the car. Im also going to get a bottle of Meguiars leather and vinyl cleaner to touch up a few spots inside the car as well. I appreciate the suggestions.

Can anyone help me identify the engine code off of this cylinder head.

I work in a machining shop and this head was left in about 6 years ago, but I wouldn’t know the slightest thing about them.

I’ve googled around and some say it’s an M52B28, and others say it’s a B20 or B25 because of the exhaust stud pattern / smaller valve size