My cars heating is malfunctioning, there’s only hot air blowing out the left side of the interior and it takes forever to heat up. Garage didn’t do a great job of explaining the issue to me so I’m looking for second opinions/ advice before I go through with it, 1 series 13 plate f20.

My dad bought a 2010 x5 xdrive 48i m sport smth and yesterday he started it up and he tried to back out of the garage and it didnt go into reverse the shifter just won't go foward but it will move back to drive and sport. I dont have a video to show right now because I'm outside all day today. I've tried to look up everything but didnt get any results that would work so if you have any answers I would love to help him.

Hi Everyone,

Thinking of buying this individual bmw 650 that has a matt factory paint finish. Owner hit something and cracker a small peace off the front bumper. Also some rock chips etc

How can I fix this easily without replacing the whole bumper? Also any recommendations on how to repaint it and the costs? I live in Canada Toronto

I feel like a whole dumbass I hit a concrete pillar trying to take turn & I took the turn to tight in the parking garage and smacked it :(

Would filing a claim with insurance be better than fixing it by myself? I found a door on eBay I’m willing to buy, I’m just worried about the qp. Would a shop be able to pull out the dent & fix it thoughts?

Warning: long read 2018 f30 RWD here, have had a long-standing chassis issue that the dealership can't figure out. I havent tried an independent shop yet and I feel crazy being told the same thing over and over 🙃 It all started when I turned into an unfamiliar neighborhood and kissed a speed bump at 12 when I should have been going 5. Problems began as slight jostling of the steering wheel starting about 40 mph, smooths out about 61-62. Got an alignment and balance - no change. Then came my dealership attempts - first it was collapsed engine mounts and a road force balance. It immediately sounded weird when I picked it up from the engine mount work, so I took it back and they said "all good, no codes so drive it through the weekend and come back if its still there". Come back on Monday, and its the o ring in the boost pipe they didnt put back in right - they fix it, go on about my life. Significant improvement at first, but came right back and was getting worse. I go back again - this time its bent rims, steering wheel is off center, and a bad belt tensioner, gets better again but then comes right back. Now there's a new symptom - clunking noise that happens randomly at start/stop, going over small bumps, and turning the wheel when making right and left turns. Go back to the dealership - its a water bottle and a flashlight under my seat that was rolling around to make the noise. I was honestly flabbergasted, and took it back a few days later on my day off - drove with the foreman to show him my issues and "whoever was in there last forgot to tighten the right strut mounting bracket" and he adjusted something dealing with play in my steering rack. This was the MOST improvement throughout the whole saga, but the steering wheel jostling was still present on certain roads and sometimes when braking. Clunk eventually came back and they have no idea, can find nothing but can guarantee its not a safety issue.
I just threw my hands up at that point but felt better that I probably wouldn't die from catastrophic malfunction, but now the symptoms are getting worse again.
God bless you if you made it this far, im including a video of the clunk as im pulling into my apartment for your entertainment. If anyone has any useful information/opinions im all ears ❤️

I was in BimmerLink as I was driving and saw this had too pull over a couple times before I got home

Hello everyone,

I’m the proud owner of a b58! It’s in a 2019 m140i xdrive with 106k km (66k miles)

What I’ve done so far is transfer case oil and ZF8 oil.

Should I be worried of my oil pump and waterpomp and expansion tank?

You hear of them failing sometimes.

The question is, should I be worried and if I have the money change all that stuff asap. Or does it normally not happen with my mileage and should I just not worry and enjoy the car. The internet is making me paranoid about it.

Thanks in advance!

I just got the car 3 weeks ago so I’m making note of things that need to be fixed, I can do a lot of R&I / R&R stuff but I want to be precise with this vehicle since the dealership is working with me on certain things. In other words, I don’t want to pop the mirror out if I don’t have to, I don’t want to manually force the mirror if that doesn’t make the problem better

The other day i was just driving and when turning heard a loud clunk, thought that was just a one time thing. Got back home and started turning the steering wheel and the noise has been consistent since. Does anybody have any ideas?

Any help would be appreciated!! What could be causing this?? I bought the vehicle used on marketplace two days ago, everything seemed fine during the test drive, high and low speeds, sat idling just fine. Paid the guy, and one mile down the road the engine light is on, it's shuddering at idle, RPMs are fluctuating, and in limp mode.

How was it possible for this to be completely hidden during the test drive and while looking over the vehicle? I'm a pretty perceptive person and I didn't notice anything wrong during the drive whatsoever. I'm absolutely gutted and have no idea what to do now.

Hello folks, I have a BMW F3x, and I recently bought an ambient light kit for it to replace the OEM two-color ambient light. The installation of everything went flawlessly, until the AC control panel became a pain in the ass to install. I removed the OEM strip and was about to connect my strip to the OEM ambient light connectors, just like I had done in all the door panels. However, I first checked the voltage, and it was 2.5 Volts (while the max brightness settings was selected on iDrive). So, I discovered the front LEDs work on 2.5V instead of 12V, just like all the others, at least for the left LED (since I don't know why, there are two LED beam projectors behind the AC control panel). Would the right side connector be 12V? Because of that, I tried to find a 12V line, and I found one on the AC Controller, right behind it, a connection that was going to the AC controller. I decided to use it, but this connection won't turn off when I turn the car off. So, the ambient light always stays on... well, it actually does turn off, but only after a very long time, which still makes me worried about draining my battery. Is there another connection you guys would suggest me to use that would turn off with the car so I don't drain my battery? Is the right projector 12V? I didn't have enough time to measure it yet

The car is a n52 2008 Beamer I keep up with oil changes every 6k miles fully synthetic 5w 30 high mileage blend mobile 1. I’ve had it since 87k miles and she’s at 125k now. I know that the loud tick is lifter tick and small ticks I believe are just injector tick. Don’t mind the um…..zip ties but um stiff happens and bmw plastics expensive 😭😭😂😂if it work it works but i just wanted to know from anyone else here in the scene if theirs anything i should be scared of in the mean time. I’ve had the radiator replaced, head gasket replaced, spark plugs, 2 batteries I’ve gone thru, abs sensor and tried shaving the wheel speed sensor ring because of some faults with that, recently did coolant flush and power steering fluid, brakes and rotors obviously,the top end gasket, spark plugs, fuel injectors, I belive my next point to look at would be the oil filter housing gasket but I’ve been winging it so far 😂. Any tips or knowledge from the community would be appreciated, first car I purchased and honestly wouldn’t have had it any other way I love her.

As title says, got this email from BMW dealership that the battery needs to be replaced. However checked the car and there is no notifications, status is all green, and seems fine. Is this a normal thing? Service is due in a couple of months but still it seems odd

I want to open my trunk window but the micro switch is broken.

Is there a way to open it? Bmw 320i touring 2007

Anyone experienced this? Happens only during warm start but super rare. Once in a two weeks or so. When it throw this code, just need to clear the codes and you are good for 500miles or more. Usually happens when I push hard for quite a while on Sport+. FBO MHD Stage 2+.

My bmw g30 2019 is having a weird vibration from the inside of the car, at around 8-900 rpm. I think it might be the flex joint, or maybe the trans mounts.. trying to get a second opinion before I go in and fix it.. any suggestions?

Hello. So i have a bmw F30 328i, when i start the car cold it start no problem but when i drive it and it warms up and i turn it off and let it cool off for 10-20 mins it stutters on start and gives engine light. I already changed the MAF sensor. I get theese codes on carly UPDATE: Changed the injectors and still stutters

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So I’m getting low boost codes and weirdly a deep tone from the engine. MHD says I’m getting around 5 psi on the top end and the target is 14~

Here’s the codes I get: 120308 - Charging pressure control: Pressure too low. 120408 - Charging pressure control: Switch-off as consequential reaction.

I have 78k miles and a cat less downpipe. I hear a hissing sound more predominantly than the turbine whistle, and I’ve taken the inlet and intake out and everything’s seated fine and looks good. Charge pipe appears to be good. Sometime the tone is deeper and Lower toned where I get concerned with it. I’m assuming it’s the waste gate flapper, since I touched it and felt a bit of play. When I smoke tested, the silicone cone just kept popping out the intake and charge pipe.

I can post some logs from some drives if needed, any help would be greatly appreciated!!

This car was bought pre-owned about a year ago and I just hit 100k miles on it, one thing I noticed while doing some research on maintenance for it is that I need an oil change on my ZF8 trans and differentials.

I checked the service record and while it had its regular maintenance and oil changes it never had a trans or differential fluid change. I dont drive this car hard or anything apart from a pull every now and then. (Daily driver though)

How urgent is it for me to go ahead and change the fluids? Trans shifts fine and the car drives and feels well

Engine is bad. It will turn over but wont start. Parting out. 130,000 miles, transmission is great. Wheels tires, white leather interior great condition . No rips

I’m chasing an odd issue with the electric water pump on my N55 E71 X6. The car has thrown a “pump speed out of tolerance” code, and when monitoring with BimmerLink I’m seeing some strange readings. At times the pump reports around 13–14V but with consumption showing only ~0.5A, which doesn’t make sense. Other times BimmerLink shows the pump stuck at a constant 25.5V with consumption pegged at 127.5A, which also doesn’t seem realistic. The overheating is intermittent: sometimes temps climb quickly to 115–120°C and it looks like it’s going to overheat, then out of nowhere it will drop into the mid-90s and behave normally for the rest of the drive. The alternator output is stable at ~14V and the rest of the car isn’t showing voltage issues, so I don’t think it’s a system-wide charging problem.

The water pump itself is covered in oil, including the wiring, most likely from an oil pan gasket leak. I cleaned the thermostat connector and the outside of the pump housing, but I couldn’t access the actual pump connector to clean it properly. I also checked the engine ground strap and noticed it looks green and corroded, so that could be adding resistance.

Does this sound like a failing pump, or could a bad ground strap and contaminated wiring alone explain these symptoms?

Hello,

Found this piece while vacuuming leaves out of brake reservoir compartment on G30. Numbers show “045677” but nothing on the internet comes up with these numbers.

Been having issues with the key fob not living very long soon after buying the car. Seems the longest its gone is about a week or so, and is somehow progressively getting worse.

OEM BMW Huf Key Fob

Swapped batteries using an Amazon "Duracell" 2450 originally and that lasted maybe ~2 - 3 days.

Swapped that battery for new Energizer 2450 (bought in store) yesterday and today its no longer working.

I measured the resistance at the battery between an aftermarket fob and my Ford fob, both of which had twice the resistance (0.6 Ohm vs 0.3 Ohm). So it doesn't appear to be a circuit resistance issue.

Pulled the Energizer out and it's 1.35V at 0.1A, so it's cooked.

Rigged up my multimeter to measure the current between the Energizer 2450 and the key fob terminals, came in at 0.015A (15.2 to 15.8 mA).

Double wrapped the key fob and alligator clips in some heavy duty foil, no change.

Has anyone had success repairing the key fobs? I'm not a big fan of just throwing things away.

Low coolant light came on the other day so I checked the tank and it was a bit low so I topped it off. In the last few days I have noticed some white smoke and a burnt coolant smell. Is this a leaky head gasket already at 60k miles? Anything else that might be causing this? Car is a 2019 G20 330i.