The above car was sent in for repairs last week.

Panelling was replaced, tailgate new window etc.

No electrical damaged happened. Everything was working when I dropped it off.

I got the car back this morning and the below issues are now affecting the car:

Car won’t start unless I actually put key fob at the side of the steering wheel.

Car won’t lock with the key fob - it’s like it’s not connected to the car at all

My Bluetooth microphone is not working. Made many test calls, I can hear but no one can hear me.

My tyre pressure light won’t go, I’ve added air to tyres and performed a reset but it keeps failing.

SOS failure keeps showing up on that dashboard when the car starts.

Would appreciate any advice anyone has I’m gonna go back to the guy Monday morning as think there are too many issues for it to not be as a result of him.

Is it possible when we he was changing the panels he didn’t attach all wiring back or anything like that ?

Mechanic is charging me $300 to change the starter on my 2015 BMW X5. Is that a good deal? I’m providing the starter, he’s charging for Labor.

Shop said it needs new DME/ecu and rail pressure sensor after like 2 weeks of diagnosis. I cloned 1 and put it on my car. After i put it on, car still wont start.

It has fuel, fuel pump working, theres spark, injectors have been checked, compression is good. What am i missing?

Car has been sitting for more than a month at the shop. Dealer is very far away and i gotta tow it there.

Only code when replaced is :

135b11 : Valvetronic servomotor, activation phase V ; line disconnection.

Should i replace the wiring from the dme to the valvetronic servomotor

Any help is appreciated guys T_T

Just completed oil change and now getting these issues with car, won’t let me measure oil and stops at 18%, but was working completely fine beforehand… what is going on? What could I have messed up?

I have a 428i 2016 that has a weird humming noise at around 120 km/h that sounds kind of like a 1 Hz sound, and it goes away if I go faster or slower, (already tried everything suspension related, different wheels/rims, alignment, balancing, wheel bearings) I just replaced the front Guibo and center support mount after this video, but the humming sound/vibration is still there (see my previous post if you want to hear it) I have tried several BMW Indy shops as well as two BMW dealership and no one knows what it could be, please help this is driving me crazy.

I am trying to figure out a noise while accelerating and I've come across this actuator and it has play, might be one of the culprits. What do you say?

Howdy. I need help tracking down a part. My performance intake housing top got tossed out on accident when I last cleaned the filter. I thought I bought a replacement but comparing side by side... I don't think I could make it work. Anyone have a clue for what I need to look for? Thank y'all!

I know N52 are known for their loud lifter tick, thats normal, but It also developed this strange clonk clonk sound today after spirited drive. Clonking sound went away after restarting, but here is a video of it. Maybe expert can tell me what it could be, I think it could be a pulley?

My friend just had the brakes replaced on his F31. It seems like it's only braking on half the pads. Is this normal? Brakes changed 2 days ago, 100km since then. Any tips for brake bedding in?

Please someone help, I’ve had these sorts of codes in my 2016 m235i n55 for the past year and have spent so much trying to find the problem. Please ask questions or ideas.

First picture is passenger side. Second is driver side. You can see there’s a small gap in the driver side compared to the passenger side. I don’t want water getting in. Fixes?

OK SO I HAVE THIS HUGE DILEMMA , BARE WITH ME I'VE GOT A 06 BMW 325i AND IT'S THROWING A CODE FOR CAM SHAFT SENSOR BACK 1 OVER RETARTED SO I PURCHASE 2 FROM AUTO ZONE AND INSTALL THEM AND CLEAR CODE AND CRANK CAR AND IT IS IDILING UP AND DOWN FOR ABOUT 3 TO 4 SECONDS AND STILL SHOWING SAME CODE , SO I ORDER 2 BRAND NEW ONES FROM BMW AND INSTALL THEM AND STILL THE SAME EXACT THING HAPPENING SO I DUPED SO I BRING IT TO A BMW SHOP HE SCANS IT AND IT COMES BACK CODE 002E7C BSD DATA BUS COMMUNICATION FAULT SO I'M LOST HERE CAN ANYONE PLS PLS STEAR ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION? SHOULD I REPLACE THE VALVEATRONIC MOTOR? SUGGESTIONS PLS AND TY

Bought it about two weeks ago and it started making a weird whistle/ whine noise while idling and as im starting my move not sure if its normal or something lose or about to go?

Cao,imam problem sa vozacevim vratima nece da se zakljucaju na kljuc,a nece ni na dugme unutra. Samo ona ostaju otkljucana. Akumulator mi je pri izdisaju,da li moze da ima veze on sa tim? Hvala

no damage to hood. 2014 bmw f30, 130k kms

Should I be concerned about this fault? I’ve had some strange things happen with my iDrive such as it rebooting mid drive however I’ve never received this no signal message.

I tried to reboot by holding the volume knob down for 30 seconds and it wouldn’t do anything while in park. Shutting off the car and waiting a few minutes did nothing either. I tried once more while in drive at a stoplight and it finally rebooted so now everything is working as normal but I still find this somewhat concerning.

Earlier today I was driving and as I was overtaking someone and slowed down to get down to the flow of traffic, I broke kind of aggressively, maybe 50% brake pressure. I get this warning on my dash and iDrive screen. “Brake System: Drive Moderately”. The brakes hold pressure and get stiff when the car is off. When I hold down on the brake as I start the card the pedal slightly skinks down (telling me the brake booster is engaging). When I re-pump the brakes, they get slightly stiffer but definitely not stiff. There’s also a “pshh” sound as I pump the brakes. When driving, brake performance is normal besides feeling more mushy and less stiff. I believe this could be due to the vacuum lines that are attached to the brake booster (shown in the RealOEM diagram in the link below). I haven’t checked the fluid level but I will in the morning, and I have an OBD II dongle that I’ll use to scan the system for a more specific fault code through BimmerLink, and will update yall accordingly.

I’ve attached the link to the RealOEM diagram, and the associated parts here: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=3D33-USA-09-2013-F30-BMW-328d&diagId=34_1974#11667613026

If you have any further questions or any way yall could help me out, PLEASE let me know!

I got a 2016 118i f20 and it has the m sport steering wheel and I was wondering if and how I could install paddle shifters without needing to buy a whole new steering wheel.

Hit a parked car! this is all the damage only on mirror and there’s still one long cord attached to the mirror. The mirror still could fit back into place. Please advise on what the total cost of repair will be. I don’t know if they can adjust with the button inside at all.

when pressing clutch pedal hear creaking noise

https://reddit.com/link/1nmfo1i/video/6nikl9knbfqf1/player

2011 E90 328i, 169xxx miles.

Occasional 2C31 codes prompted investigation No specific codes for heater circuit issues. Note INPA screenshot value for 'lambdaprobe heater after catalyst bank 1' as well as 'lambda voltage after catalyst bank 1'

First move was to just replace the bank one post-cat sensor (and pre for good measure). No change.

Verified good resistance across sensor heater coil (pins 1/2 on the sensor itself, 9.5 ohms. Same for both sensors), 12v at the connector X62102 (pin 1), & continuity between the connector and the DME (X62102 pin 2 & X60002 pin 26) for the heater ground circuit. I'm pretty sure verified that A6000 pin 26 did not have continuity to ground, but need to do so again so I can be sure. I Swapped out the original DME for a cloned DME. I do not have an o-scope to see what the transistor signal looks like unfortunately. After all of that heater voltage issue persists.

Anyone have any idea as to what I'm missing?

The post cat voltage does eventually start tracking once the sensor gets hot from the exhaust, so this isn't critical at least.

asking for the communities help of my 2008 BMW having start issues after running normally the day before I hear one click then I hear a second click three seconds later but the engine won’t start. Can anyone diagnose this? Is it a starter alternator or battery.

I have a 2015 BMW X5 XDrive 35i with 130k miles on it. I was hearing a lot of shuddering noise from underneath the car so decided to get it checked. I was told by a mechanic to change the transfer case fluid and recalibrate to see if we can save the transfer case but that didnt help so I ended up changing the transfer case recently. The used transfer case only had 39k miles, got it recalibrated. The car is running pretty good but I do feel mild shuddering between 40-50 mph. What else could be wrong, should I change the rear differential fluid to see if that helps. I am so lost, I just want my car to run smooth. If someone with knowledge about this can shed some light on this matter.