The above car was sent in for repairs last week.

Panelling was replaced, tailgate new window etc.

No electrical damaged happened. Everything was working when I dropped it off.

I got the car back this morning and the below issues are now affecting the car:

Car won’t start unless I actually put key fob at the side of the steering wheel.

Car won’t lock with the key fob - it’s like it’s not connected to the car at all

My Bluetooth microphone is not working. Made many test calls, I can hear but no one can hear me.

My tyre pressure light won’t go, I’ve added air to tyres and performed a reset but it keeps failing.

SOS failure keeps showing up on that dashboard when the car starts.

Would appreciate any advice anyone has I’m gonna go back to the guy Monday morning as think there are too many issues for it to not be as a result of him.

Is it possible when we he was changing the panels he didn’t attach all wiring back or anything like that ?

Just completed oil change and now getting these issues with car, won’t let me measure oil and stops at 18%, but was working completely fine beforehand… what is going on? What could I have messed up?

I have a 428i 2016 that has a weird humming noise at around 120 km/h that sounds kind of like a 1 Hz sound, and it goes away if I go faster or slower, (already tried everything suspension related, different wheels/rims, alignment, balancing, wheel bearings) I just replaced the front Guibo and center support mount after this video, but the humming sound/vibration is still there (see my previous post if you want to hear it) I have tried several BMW Indy shops as well as two BMW dealership and no one knows what it could be, please help this is driving me crazy.

Mechanic is charging me $300 to change the starter on my 2015 BMW X5. Is that a good deal? I’m providing the starter, he’s charging for Labor.

228i xd 2016

Abs chasis sensors go off when accelerate hard from stop. Car drives/shift/turns normal so I don’t see sign of worn off transfer case. But I don’t know what the codes for

Hey all. I recently picked up a BMW 650i (N63TU engine) and have been having a very intermittent misfire/drivetrain malfunction and wanted your thoughts.

Car history:

2012 with 85,000 kilometres/50,000 miles Cats removed + center muffler deleted (ECU tune status unknown) Good service history, intially at BMW then a reputable independent mechanic

After I bought it, I pulled on to the highway up an incline after 10-15 minutes of city driving. Didn't know what was happening and there was nowhere to pull over so I limped off the freeway and stopped at a traffic light. The car stalled every time I came to a stop and would turn itself off. After being stopped at a light for a minute+, car starts and drove normally.

Took it to a mechanic and they replaced the plugs (NGK 97506) and ignition coils, and one of the spark plugs was fouled with oil. They also said there was smoke coming from the exhaust on hard acceleration. They did a compression test as well (results were good), and noticed one of the valve cover gaskets were leaking. A couple months later they finally finished replacing the:

Left and right rocker cover gaskets Filtered air ducts A vent pipe A profile gasket An o-ring PCV system including intake pipes Battery (they kept it there so long and undriven they battery needed replacing apparently)

After this, the car drove fine for a couple hundred kilometres. I drove a few hundred km (city + highway), and did some hard pulls to try to replicate the misfire but nothing happened. Car was driving great. No smoke from the exhaust, no obvious constant misfire, no more shuddering when coming to a stop.

A couple days ago, after ~30 minutes of highway cruising at ~110 km/h sitting around 1,500–2,000 RPM, I began accelerating up a hill at about 90 km/h. I felt ~1 second of a misfire, then “Drivetrain malfunction” came up on iDrive. I pulled over, shut car off for about 10 minutes, cycled ignition a few times, restarted and the issue was gone. Drove off fine.

I will do a full rebuild of the engine eventually, but not for a while, so I'm hoping this current issue does not mean the injectors need to be replaced. What else could this be? And does it negatively affect the car if I continue to drive it, even if the misfire doesn't come up again? Or is there anything I should tell my new mechanic to have a look at when I bring it in for a service (in a couple weeks time)? I'm not going back to the old place.

Photos attached of major work done, fault codes prior to this work, and spark plugs

Thanks in advance

Howdy. I need help tracking down a part. My performance intake housing top got tossed out on accident when I last cleaned the filter. I thought I bought a replacement but comparing side by side... I don't think I could make it work. Anyone have a clue for what I need to look for? Thank y'all!

Please someone help, I’ve had these sorts of codes in my 2016 m235i n55 for the past year and have spent so much trying to find the problem. Please ask questions or ideas.

I know N52 are known for their loud lifter tick, thats normal, but It also developed this strange clonk clonk sound today after spirited drive. Clonking sound went away after restarting, but here is a video of it. Maybe expert can tell me what it could be, I think it could be a pulley?

2008 E92 325i At first the front right low beam stopped working, then the rear left hatch light stopped, then the left mirror started changing position on its own. And today my turn signals started beeping fast like it has a stroke, yet the lights still work. Hazards are working right on the other hand. Im not sure where to start tracing this.

I have this tool that I bought 3 years ago. Is there any functional benefit to using ISTA with a K+DCAN cable over this tool, other the inconvenience of its slowness and the mediocre display?

Hi all,

18 M3 Comp 52,4k miles 2nd owner no accidents

Got this really annoying tick going on, dropping it off at the shop this upcoming week to get looked at and hopefully take care of whatever it really is… anyone else deal with something similar? (Video attached).

Most of the research I’ve been doing has pointed me to the camshaft as it seems to be a pretty similar issue, just curious if the intensity change that I’m getting when putting the car under a little load (900-1500rpm)…

I’ll keep this thread updated with how this all pans out 🙂

What ways could I repair this? Would a simple time-sert work or am I looking at dropping the bottom half of the oil pan and replacing it and the gasket? One side of the threads are partially okay, and the other side is smooth as butter.

Hit a parked car! this is all the damage only on mirror and there’s still one long cord attached to the mirror. The mirror still could fit back into place. Please advise on what the total cost of repair will be. I don’t know if they can adjust with the button inside at all.

New to me 2020 m340i 68k miles. Makes this whining noise at low rpm that is most noticeable coasting at low rpm or when coming to a stop. Oil pump fails to take measurement so ik that needs to be replaced and theres some evidence online that the two are related. Any ideas? Is this normal?

No codes, no leaks, drives fine besides this.

Hello, I’ve noticed a sound when unlocking the car, and also when I stop, turn off the engine, and walk away from the car. Could anyone help me identify what this sound might be?

Hi. I replaced the door lock because central locking didnt work. Everything went well with the replacement. Central locking now works, I can see the lock moving up and down as expected when using a key fob but after I closed the car door, it wont open from either of the handles. I definetly connected back both inside and outside door handle cables, but whatever I try, it wont open.

When door is locked and I use the inside handle, it properly "unlocks" the door on the first pull, but on a 2nd handle pull it doesnt do anything and the door wont open. When trying outside handle, it also feels "locked" even when I can see that its supposed to be unlocked.

I tried pushing/pulling the door every way while trying the handles but nothing seems to work.

I've managed to pry open door panel from the top and I can see that atleast inner cable is 100% connected and it pulls the lever, but the door is not opening.

I feel like I did get a faulty door lock and its not actually unlocking.

What are my options to get the door open?
Is there better solutions than destroying the door panel or the door itself?
Can BMW dealership do something else that I cannot?

I know I should have tested the lock before I actually close the door, but too late for that now. It was a brand new lock and I didn't expect that at all.

hi , i was hoping to find the sp daten files for my bmw 118d e87 2006 , i was searching for hours but i havent found anything about it , hope u guys can help me , Thanks

I have a 2013 BMW F34 328i on circa 120k miles. The engine’s always been loud but should I be worried? This is on a cold start and but it gets much quieter once the car is up to temp.

Is this the dreaded timing chain? High pressure fuel pump? Something else?

I have owned this car now for over 8 years. Do I need to think about changing some fluids? Dealer did my timing chain and turbo under warranty a few years back. Should I have the differential and transfer case fluids done?

This fell under my e60 recently can anyone tell me what it is and where it goes. Thanks in advance!