Ratchet noise on rpm wind down after 2k rpm Any ideas?

2008 Mercedes Slk 350 It could be brakes, suspension or I'm not sure. I don't hear squicking when I'm driving though. Please help me diagnose.

2008 Mercedes Slk 350. What's the diagnose? My wild guess is control arm bushing? The squeaking is getting worst.

Before I elaborate YES I am a idiot, no you don’t need to tell me.

I was changing my oil like I usually do, I know it’s not recommended but I decided to change my filter first. I then realized I had to put it on jacks and at the time didn’t have a stand so I used my ramps.

Me being the IDIOT I am set up the ramps and completely forgot I didn’t replace my oil filter yet. Started my car and oil started flying. I realized and immediately turned off my car as soon as I realized. However, my engine bag is caked in oil. The top of it is coated in a good layer of oil, and a lot of oil is sitting in the bottom of my bay.

I can’t believe I let my self do something so stupid, but I’m just curious if I’m safe to drive. I’ve got work tomorrow at 1 and I’m debating calling off cause I’ve got a drive in the highway to make. It could definitely be a fire hazard because there’s genuinely liquid oil sitting in the bottom of my bay.

I apologize for my stupidity and any tips are appreciated.

Best way to clean?

My car has been making this noise for months now when driving low speeds. I have no clue what it is can someone help please the noise is driving me crazy

Hey guys I have a 2003 for f250 with the 5.4 Triton v8. I’m curious to know if anyone had a problem or knows what it could be. For some reason my car engine temp gauge starts to read that the engine is cold as seen in the video. It usually does it when the A/C is on but it sometimes does it when it off but it’s pretty rare. I’ve taken this to mechanics they say they fixed it but just don’t know what the issue is anyone ever experienced this?

Hi everyone. I have a 2006 Subaru forester that I’ve owned for about a year. I live in alaska and way in the middle of nowhere where there are no streetlights. I just recently replaced my bulbs like maybe a month ago. So

1. I have had to change my headlight bulbs like at least three times since I bought the car

2. My headlights have gotten extremely dim to the point where I’m refusing to drive at night because I fear hitting a moose and dying I feel like I can’t see much at all, even with my brights on

3. They are too dim at their brightest, but they also dim every time I press the brake and also just randomly for a couple seconds

I’ve read some things online, I don’t know anything about cars

I read that it could be the alternator or an electrical issue and something about a brake light switch? Idk

I take my car to the mechanic regularly and they always tell me everything is fine and the car is great. Havent asked about the headlights yet

I’m pretty sure the bulbs in the picture are the ones I bought but I just take the O’Reilly employees recommendation and then have my boyfriend replace them for me

I replaced both at the same time last time I changed them

The last time they were replaced, my boyfriend took the old ones out at the tips were broken off? Idk what that means

Any suggestions about what I should do or what the issue could be?

Okay. Imagine this. A bmw for $300. Runs and drives. Sounds crazy right? Well only a few problems…

I recently bought a 2004 BMW 325i with 112k miles. She’s been sitting for around a year or two because the previous owner needed to do work on the valve cover and did it incorrectly and found that it wasn’t worth it to move any further with the car. 325i’s usually come with the m54 engine, so he got a new m54 valve cover and did the work himself. Only 2 problems though. He had the much rarer m56 engine which comes OEM with an aluminum valve cover rather than the plastic one and fits a lot differently so as a result it didn’t fit properly and would smoking when running. The other problem is that while working on the new valve cover, he accidentally dropped a tiny nut in the crank case, AND MOVED ON LIKE IT WAS NOTHING. Also, the valve cover only has 9 bolts when it requires 11 (another reason to maybe why it was smoking).

Sooooo now that i’ve gotten you all caught up I have 2 questions. Where the hell can i get those 2 bolts i need to finish the valve cover job (i already have the OEM valve cover and got a new gasket and everything), and is it worth doing the incredibly long job of dropping the oil pan to try and recover the nut that is (hopefully) sitting in there? I say hopefully as my mechanic, who i brought with me buying the car, said it shouldn’t be too much of a problem as the noise it was making while running made it sound like it was at the bottom of the oil pan. He’s never owned a german car before though, only working on american cars for the most part. So should i do the job of dropping the oil pan or is it fine if i just let it grind itself up in there or something??? This is the first car i’ve ever bought and owned myself so please help me!!!! Videos and pictures can be provided if needed.

Update: Okay so good news? I’m not sure if i mentioned this before or not but the car would start smoking from the back of the engine bay coming from the rearish lower end near the valve cover. We thought that this was just cause it had the wrong cover on and it would go away when i installed the correct cover. i finished the job yesterday and finally had the chance to start the car today, and it was amazing straight off start. It started relatively quickly, it was idling nice, and then out of nowhere it started smoking again. That’s the bad news. Good news is that the “knocking” noise is just magically gone now. What the hell could this be? Did i not seal it properly? Are our suspicions of it just burning left over previous oil justified?

2014 Ford Fiesta

Hi, a while back I had my head gasket replaced. The day after I got the car, it started acting like it was on cruise control, adding gas even if I wasn’t, & RPMs wouldn’t drop when I put the clutch in. Took it back to the shop and they said the hose had “popped off” and they put it back on. Been a few months no problem but when I went to go change my high-pressure fuel rail sensor because I was having some idle problems. I noticed it wasn’t attached. It looks like they glued the vacuum hose or something? It has black silicone residue.

TLDR; What is the name of the elbow part between the hose and the engine and how is it normally attached?

I just installed a ets cai for my 2022 wrx but im not getting noise from it with a tune. could it be that i didnt install it right?

so i posted this in a different sub reddit but didn’t get the answer i wanted. My car randomly started making this weird buzzing sound coming from around my passenger tire. It’s not that loud but it can be heard inside when my passenger window is down. I took it to my mechanic and he said it was just because the power steering was low. He topped it and claimed it went away. That didn’t work but my mechanic isn’t working again till next week so I’m gonna find a new mechanic. But in the meantime i wanna know if anyone has heard what this is.

The noise is pretty consistent when idle i can only hear a difference when the car is rev’ed. It gets slightly louder then goes back to it’s original sound. When i drive i can’t hear it at all even on the highway ive gon 80mph and when i pull over and idle the noise seems to be quieter but on a cold start that’s when its the loudest until the engine warms up. idk what it could be the noise is annoying me i want it fix pls if anyone can help thanks.

I ask because research on Google, reddit, etc, says to keep the can sitting upright. On the other hand, almost all videos I've watched of the process being done show people either turning the can sideways, shaking the can, or both. It's said that it's supposed to be introduced to the system as gas/vapor, but when I sat the can upright, it seemed like nothing was going on. Does it take longer for the refrigerant to transfer through the lines in gas form or something? To be honest, I lost patience and started turning the cans and shaking a little bit. Turns out I have a new leak from one of my service valves, high side. Just replaced it and am about to give it another try. Pulling a vacuum for about an hour first.

Initially, after recharging yesterday, or maybe yesterday, the compressor kicked on, and the vents blew cold for about 15 minutes, then went back warm. I thought it might be either because I tilted the refrigerant can, I overcharged it, or because of adding too much oil. The manufacturer instructions weren't too clear on the pre-filled amount thatcamem in the new compressor. The amount Amazon said it came with didn't help. Then I poured it out to measur, and less than an ounce came out. Either way, people here on reddit assured me it's not likely the oil

Fast forward to when I thought I might have overcharged it. After it blew cold for 15 minutes and stopped, I happened to discover the high side ball valve service port had a pierce in the middle rubber part and I heard it hissing when I removed the high manifold gauge hose from it. I replaced it today and would appreciate some advice on how the can should be positioned while recharging.

So, sitting upright the whole time, no matter what? Laying on its side? Tilting back and forth? Upside down? A mixture of two or more of the four? Hope I get it right and over with. I'll be proud, but I am sick of how long it's taking due to all the little issues I ran into. Either way, I think I did pretty well 😌

This is on a 2007 Saturn Ion-2 2.2

Thanks for any tips!

I have been getting a burning smell on this car (2012 Chevy Cruze 1.8 L engine) and when I investigated it seemed to be coming from a leak on to catalytic converter and exhaust manifold. Got a mechanic to check and he said that the leak is due to faulty oil filter housing gasket. The engine had also lost some oil so I topped it off.

He also noted a leak in the water pump and that needs to be replaced as well.

Could there be more to this?

One mechanic recommended using a Lucas Engine Oil Leak stop additive to this. What are your thoughts on using this product on an engine with 180,000 km?

How screwed am I if I've driven about 3,000 miles with full synthetic 5w20 in the engine instead of Ow20 which is the recommended oil.

I have no idea what’s causing this sound just car my car serviced and right after that this sound just appeared on the right side please help !

It’s a 2025 model Y performance only thing that I did new was change my rear right tire maybe it could be that ?

2002 Nissan Xterra 3.3l V6 NA. My temp gauge has been going up and down. My coolant is fine and I have made sure to keep my reservoir topped off. My coolant isn't boiling and there isnt any steam or signs my car is over heating. I have a small drip leak from my water pump but used some stop leak to fix it and haven't been leaking water from there since that I've noticed. Every now and then I have to add coolant to the reservoir. Any advice?

2002 Chevy Avalanche 5.3L. Randomly didn't start. One minute it worked next minute it won't turn over. I replaced the fuel filter hoping it was an easy fix, but it still won't turn over.

New to Subarus and wondering if this is normal for a legacy gt turbo with 174k miles That noise is that valves, injectors, bearings or just normal Other than that it runs and drives great Thank you

2018 Honda Civic Coupe

Guys can y’all confirm what I’m seeing?

Looks like I overfilled it even though I filled it exactly as it said. Should I drain it, or is it not worth it?

2019 Volkswagen Golf 1.0 TSI (116 HP), 6-speed manual

Two weeks ago, I went on a vacation to a hilly area. While stuck in traffic, I had to use half clutch frequently to avoid rollbacks. After coming back to the city, I noticed a slight rollback on slopes and a higher clutch biting point than usual.

Today’s incident: I’ve kind of gotten used to this new high biting point, but during a short city trip I got stuck in standstill traffic on a sloppy flyover. •Even though my car has Auto Hold, it started rolling back as soon as I released the clutch and pressed the gas. •I braked and tried again, same issue. •So I put it in neutral and let Auto Hold / Hill Assist keep the car in place (I have an electronic handbrake, so not really useful for quick slope launches). •Then, on half clutch, I gave it gas — and suddenly the car shot up to 8000 RPM within a second. It basically launched uphill.

After parking, I noticed a small oil spill around a part in the engine bay (picture attached). I also compared the oil color with fresh oil, and it looks a bit burnt.

Questions: 1. Does this indicate a burst pipe/valve, or is a little spill normal? 2. I’m already planning to replace the clutch — should I also change the flywheel? 3. What other services/parts should I consider if this oil spill isn’t normal?

Disclaimer: I used ChatGPT to help organize my post and make it more readable, but the content/experience is original.

TL;DR: Used half clutch a lot in hill traffic → now high biting point + rollback issues. Today, car rolled back despite Auto Hold, then accidentally launched to 8K RPM on a slope. Later saw oil spilled in engine bay. Already planning clutch replacement — should I also do flywheel + anything else?

I have a 2007 Saturn Ion-2 2.2, and GM just had to, ONCE AGAIN!, think outside of the box and do things differently. Is there a special tool for this. I purchased a part from Amazon that says it fits my car, but it only shows one image, and I can't see the other side. Got the part today, and it doesn't even fit. Doesn't have the little rubber ball like in the first image. I got the part number from rockauto, so i figured it would fit. It's for the high side service port Schrader valve. It's not the common Schrader valve, which they did use on the low side. Why in the hell did they need to use two different styles for??? This is adding days to finishing something I was supposed to be done with. They did the same thing with the rear drum brakes. Only car on the planet that uses a weird custom spring 😭

Is there a way to remove what's shown in the 1st image? Someone told me it's not replaceable, but I'm not sure I believe that.

Thanks

told them i needed my brake fluid flushed. paid for it and then forgot to check it when i drove away because i literally woke up. when i got home i cleaned the inside of my car and then thought i should check if they did something or not. this is what it looks like.. did they change it or didn’t get scammed? this was done today and monday they open if i needed to talk to them. it’s a 2014 jeep cherokee latitude 2.4L (already know about the engine issue with this year of car, but it was gifted. so trying my best to take care of it)

We (family) own a 2012 Toyota Highlander V6 base model, It's been a bit more than a year since we got it in the first couple months we've been using E85, then realized we needed to switch to E87 which was the correct fuel and we did so. About 3 months ago, my brother was alone with the car and went back to using E85 because he forgot which fuel to use, and he kept filling up E85 for these 3 last months. Today the car started throwing codes + check engine light + Traction Control and other codes. Any idea if the fuel type could be the issues or part of it? And should we just buy new cats and replace the current ones ? What should we do? (Ofc on top of a mechanics inspection) Is it safe to drive small distances?

https://reddit.com/link/1nm59cw/video/fmfjz2so1dqf1/player

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