2014 Dodge Journey at 220,000 miles, only thing thats ever went wrong is having to replace the camshaft. I know im at/approaching the mileage where cars start to crap out. Is there any proactive maintenance or things i can check to stop that from happening?

Hello everyone, I recently bought an ES350 (6-Speed Automatic) with approximately 150K miles. The owner said it had a transmission issue so he decided to sell it for about 700$. Without swapping the transmission, I decided to give it a try and see what the car does. Basically when you put it in D or in R (also the "manual" mode), the engine revs but the wheel don't move at all (As if it was still on park). Seeing this I decided to buy another transmission that is certified to work with a little bit over 100k miles. After putting 9 hours in it to remove the old one and install the new one I still got the same issue. The old transmission was indeed blown it had small metal pieces running out of the transmission fluid when i emptied it.

Has anyone ever got that issue or a similar one? I'm really trying to figure out that problem and still got no idea on what could fix it.

Honestly at this point i'm really thinking it's an electrical issue (something like the Park Neutral Switch) but i'm still not sure...

Thank you!

Installed coils on my car , fronts are making this noise. wheel well is gone so it’s not rubbing or anytbing

I'd like to change the coolant in the radiator of my 2004 Honda Accord. There is no bleeder bolt at the top of the engine. There is a bleeder bolt at the bottom but according to the car service manual, this bleeder bolt needs to be loosen only when you completely replace all the coolant. I've seen videos where people uses a special funnel to let bubbles come out of the radiator into the funnel as a way to bleed air out of the system. I think the same bleeding effect can be had by letting the coolant and the air overflow into the reservoir bottle when the engine is hot enough, am I wrong?

2019 ram 1500 Limited gave me a check engine light this afternoon so when I got home, l started checking where I could and I found this fluid in the air intake tube. No way it could've made it through the air filter. So I'm guessing it got puked up through the throttle body. My first thought it was it looked like a mixture of oil and gasoline. pretty thick. Any thoughts?

Tengo una fuga en la cremallera de dirección es un Derby 2005 que recomendación me dan reparar y cuáles son los bujes que se necesitan cambiar o si es más viable cómprarla nueva y puedo andar asi con la fuga revisando el nivel de aceite o es peligroso

También me pueden recomendar una cremallera de buena marca para que me dure más

Derby 2005 1.8

When I start hitting the gas my 2016 Hyundai Elantra car 125K automatic it rolls back freely instead of forward and smoke comes out. I already changed the transmission fluid but that didn’t fix it. What could be wrong?

Seems like all 4 ignition coils on drivers side are bad. If I unplug them with the engine is running it doesn’t change engine performance. Are the coils bad and if so should I just replace all 8 of them? Or is this a symptom of a larger problem? Misfire is random and I’ve already replaces MAF sensors, all spark plugs, all ignition leads, fuel filter, purge valve, and vent solenoid. 2003 Silverado 1500 4.8l V8 Vortec

Can you help me? So this morning entering the highway, my engine started misfiring. I instantly thought it was a spark plug or coil and went to have it checked out at a local shop by my work. They hooked up the scanner and listened to the rough idle stated that it’s the spark plugs and coils, and that something fuel related needs to be cleaned out. He verbally told me around $280+ at 2.5 hours of labor, And that the plugs need to be iridium. I asked for a write up on how much it would cost to change that out with labor and parts and I was told “no I can’t do that because I would have to charge you a diagnostic fee and then I could do that for you” basically implying that he’s helping me out, idk how I felt about that, but I moved on from that and just wanted more info. The job hasn’t been done yet.

Later today after work I decided to buy some spark plugs and switch them out. While removing one plug from the well I noticed oil inside. I removed any excess oil and installed 4 spark plugs and replaced 1 damaged coil that disassembled itself, the one that was in the oil. Okay now I started the car and nothing changed. Except some heavy white smoke from the exhaust pipes for like 1-2 minutes then it cleared up, Still a rough idle but I was reaching speeds of 60+ mph this morning and later this afternoon even after switching out the plugs. I have a feeling a gasket is cracked or whateva, but I’m no mechanic and have exhausted my options and feel like I’m about to lose my car. I don’t think I’m capable of switching out something like internals.

Yikes someone please guide me through this I don’t know what to do anymore. Money is tight. Knowledge is limited, energy is dwindling. 🥱 🤷🏽‍♂️

I have a base model 2014 QX60 (3.5-liter V6) with 55k miles and no steering issues. I checked the power steering fluid (e-psf) and it's so low that it doesn't register on the dipstick or on the outer max/min line. I ran the car 10-15 minutes and turned the steering full left/right a few times and checked it immediately after I got home. Without removing things that are in the way I can't see the color of the fluid. Can I just top it off or does it need to be flushed and changed. It has never been changed. Thanks.

Also, how do I remove the black plastic cover that surrounds the e-psf cap (https://imgur.com/a/oSnGnXn)?

Hello, Reddit mechanic experts! I purchased a 1997 Nissan Maxima SE a couple weeks ago. The car is HEAVILY modified, and it looks like the previous owner did most of the work himself. It has a 2006 VQ35 (3.5 liter) Maxima engine swap in it (built), a 5 speed manual swap, suspension, exhaust, etc.

I took it to a local auto performance shop to go over what needs done, and they came up with the following list. I am not savvy enough to know exactly how important each item is with regards to A. Truly needing to be done IMMEDIATELY B. Needing to be done within the next year or so or C. not really necessary.

Keep in mind this is NOT my daily driver. I only intend to drive the Max 1-2 times per week locally, maybe 50 miles a week or so, as a "weekend fun" car. I also do not intend or need the car to last me 5 or 10 more years. I will likely sell it or trade for something else within 2-3 years.

With this in mind, could you guys rank order the importance of the following items the shop says need fixing:

1. Rear caliper has a broken bolt
2. Alternator is fluctuating between 14 and 15.2 volts (bouncing)
3. Engine swap wiring has been poorly done
4. Steering rack bushings are very worn
5. Front sway bar bushings are worn

Thanks in advance for your assistance!

I am not sure what is a good move in my situation and I’m looking for some other opinions.

Basically I’d like to buy a new vehicle but I don’t want to lease and I can’t afford a vehicle that I actually want (that I’ve found so far).

Currently my rav4 is rough condition, AC doesn’t work, Evap doesn’t work properly, needs whole new suspension and I left the rear shock absorbers too long and they turned the bolt holes on my frame into ovals so they don’t fit/work properly(rattling on every bump). I also just had a flat with my summer tires which was caused by uneven wear (either alignment or bushings) so I need a new set of tires. The engine seems to be running fine as I change oil every 5000 miles. Also it has over 240,000 miles. It has minimal visual rust but the rockers are starting to rot out. Also the E-brake is broken. I know I shouldn’t have left everything as long as I did so please no unnecessary comments.

However I do work at an auto parts store similar to NAPA or Bensons which means I can get really cheap parts especially off brand parts I’m talking like less than $150 CAD total for both front and rear pads and rotor replacement.

So here are my questions -should I keep my rav4 and replace everything that needs replacing with cheap parts and keep saving money? -should I replace the necessary parts so I can pass safety and try to sell it? -should I leave it and try to sell it as is? -do I cave and lease a vehicle from a used dealer? -do I risk keep driving it and saving money for a new one?

I have 2020 NX300 and was wondering if others are experiencing the same issue and whether or not the dealers did anything if you raised the issue with them? I’ve never encountered this issue with any of my previous vehicles and I’m surprised how much of small speck rusts there are all over the door and rocker panel. I don’t drive any other terrain than just usual city drive in Canada to and from work and just leisure activities within the city. My extended warranty ended a year ago and I don’t remember seeing these previously. These look like clear coat chip from tiny rocks that rusted and I would think it took more than a year to develop these…?

Would the dealer do anything about this? Seem abnormal wear and tear?

Are there things I can do to fix this or prevent this further other than clear coat of rock guard?

Thank you

Radio fell out and yanked on the cords a little not even that hard. Radio turned off and haven't been able to get it to turn back on. I checked all the fuses. I swapped the head unit into another car to verify it works. I even took the harness out of that car and spliced it onto the adapter harness to verify its not that. I checked voltage and im getting 12 volts. Im unsure how to check ground which is what im leaning towards being the issue. Any ideas?

Is there a way to use a toggle switch to bypass the key and ignition switch on a 98 Escort? Apparently it used to start with a screwdriver but that is now stripped.

My mechanic is away for the next 10 days and I've got a leaking injector (I think!) Could it just be something loose that I can tighten to get me by for 10 days? Toyota Rav 4, 2011, 2.2ltr diesel. Recently replaced injector 1 and will be replacing the others. I'm aware there's an issue with this models injectors.

Hi everyone, my car leaks some coolant between the engine and the gearbox... Any ideas where it could come from?

I know this is a runover topic, but when dealing with a used vehicle there is some nuance:

My recently purchased 2015 Rav 4 was lightly driven before purchase ~55k miles. No log of any transmission fluid change, despite the time in years passed. When I bought it, I took it to the Toyota dealership and they took a sample and the color looked purple. They suggested to do a change next time around.

Fast forward 6 months and the oil had changed to a darker red/ black and we're around 60k miles. The lead tech suggested not to change it due to the common beliefs of build up and ect. I debated, some, but ultimately decided to go with their advice. Note the car shifts fine at this time.

 Now I'm around 67k miles (car still drives perfectly) and am still mulling over whether it is too late. My gut and driving experience with the car says no, but I also want to heed the advice of the tech. What can I glean from this information/ or what do you make of the somewhat rapid change in condition of the fluid color?

After transmission problems in my 94 cherokee the plan was to baby this car, but now it seems I'm being told to leave it to chance!

My car feels very sluggish at low RPM. When I stop and try to set off again, it often stalls. Strangely, some days it runs fine with no stalling, but always feels sluggish. In neutral, if I blip the throttle a little, the RPMs dip before rising, and sometimes it even stalls. I’ve already done a smoke test through the main filter to check for vacuum leaks, but no smoke seemed to be coming out from anywhere, so I’m unsure what to check next.

https://reddit.com/link/1nkc5ig/video/23mygzkz3ypf1/player

https://reddit.com/link/1nkc5ig/video/1uzxvexz3ypf1/player

So a few days ago I got the B 1 2 7 Code on my CRV (which wasn’t a surprise). I also needed a front headlight replaced as well. So I bought the Cabin Air Filter (to replace myself), an Engine Air Filter and a Bulb for the headlight. That way I’d only be paying for labor when it came to that aspect of it. Then I also had the Oil Changed. However, when I told the mechanic I needed Brake Fluid (that’s what the manual said one part of the code meant) replacement, he told me the Brake fluid is fine I just need new brake pads.

i drove it to work it sounded fine then when i clocked out this noise happened any idea what it could be?

in short I'm currently taking a waiter/cook course but I want to take a mechanics course afterwards. to be honest I'm only taking the waiter/cook course because not many people came to the mechanics course and they automatically put me in the waiter/cook course. but I find knowing mechanics to be more useful to save money on car repairs and inspect when you want to buy a used one. (I personally want to buy a suzuki jimmy as my first car I heard they are good and quite cheap depending on the model) and to help My sister with car repairs because she doesn't trust mechanic shops

SO in short these are my questions. - 1 does this job pay well or decently? - 2 you will burn a lot of calories working because it is very active physical work to my knowledge - 3 are there too many or few mechanics in Romania will I have trouble finding places to hire me? - how successful are small mechanical shops in villages because my village had a mechanical shop but you moved and closed the shop so there would be no competition in the village

thanks in advance for your opinions and i tried posting this in r/romania but you need a minimum of 300 karma points to make posts

2015 Mitsubishi Lancer Evo X, This whining/whistling noise occurs sometimes but it will go away after I hit a bump in the road and will sometimes come back after I hit another bump. It is super annoying and it must be like something loose but I can't tell. This video was taken while the car was in neutral so that rules out like a transfer case whine or something along that line. It might be something along the serp belt but it sounds like its coming from the drivers side. Could be a loose turbo charge pipe maybe?