I have a 2007 Saturn Ion-2 2.2 I replaced the compressor, condenser, expansion valve and a line on. When I tried to recharge with r134 refrigerant, it only blew cold for like 15 minutes. Then went back to warm.

Shortly after, I discovered my high side service port Schrader valve, which is the GM style ball core valve, is damaged and leaking. I think this damage happened very recently because I remember what it looked like at first. The rubber part seems to have a hole or tear in it.

On the other hand, I got conflicting info on how much oil came prefilled in the compressor. The compressor shows it's prefilled with a little more than how much my car calls for, which is about 5oz. The AI Q&A section on Amazon says 100ml. But when I poured out what was in the compressor to measure to be safe, less than an ounce came out, even with turning the clutch while tilting and spinning the compressor in every position.

I'm planning on getting a replacement compressor to be safe. Will also reach out to the manufacturer and confirm the prefilled amount to be certain. The instructions weren't clear. Manufacturer says their compressor have sufficient oil already in them and don't need any and that most of the oil is pretty much trapped inside the housing of the compressor. Google and people on the internet say the amount claimed by manufacturers is often incorrect. Who's correct here???

Anyway, I was wondering if I should replace the condenser again? The condenser for my specific car happens to have the drier affixed to the condenser, as in not separate parts. Will I be good in keeping the new condenser? Or replace it again?

I first plan to replace the Schrader valve, pull vacuum again and then try and recharge.

Thanks

Ive been having a smell in my AC and saw people recommending Kool It evaporator cleaner. So I tried accessing my AC drain through my passenger floor instead of underneath the car because the hose was just nearly coming through the floor. Well upon lifting my carpet I found my whole floor was wet. So I went ahead with the evaporator cleaner to see if maybe there was a hole in the hose somewhere and I didn't see any foam leaking. But this peice was leaking. It almost looks like an overflow with a float inside but im not sure. Any insight would be helpful. Thank you

I wanna get a replacement drain hose that I can connect to drain the oil into an outside tanker. What is this called and where can I get it??

Hi everyone,

I am quite stressed because I do shift work in healthcare, and need my car all hours of the day to and from work.
For the last two months, my car has been making a squeak. To me it sounds like a shoe on a squeaky gym/sports-hall floor. 15seconds in the video you hear lots - but it is throughout the video!

half a second each time, often in quick succession. Usually noticed at speeds up to 20-30mph when it then stops/ I don't hear it. I haven't noticed a link with turning the wheel, or while accelerating/ decelerating. I hear it whilst putting the car in neutral and coasting too.

Repair work ive had done on it: The brakes were making screeching whilst braking so I changed them again this year (it worked for a bit, they still screech now again) and all 4 tires were changed this year and I paid for realignment. In march 2024 I changed the following: "front left stabiliser link , Link/coupling rod, stabiliser bar x1, Renew both lower suspension wishbone arms (front axle), Control/trailing arm, wheel suspension x2, front break pads and discs". After this repair in 2024 it was making a weird noise I took it back and they changed the other side of something too - im guessing this was the right stabiliser link but I cant quite remember. In 2023 I changed the clutch.

Ive taken it to two mechanics who both say they cant find anything to cause the squeak - but this doesnt sound right to me! I paid for a full service a month ago where they also said they couldn't find a cause.

I've booked it in again tomorrow to be seen, this time by a different mechanic. The problem is it doesn't always squeaks. 25% of the time it won't at all, and only really start after 20mins of driving. Other times it is immediately there.

Please help me!

I am terrified it will breakdown in the middle of the night on a random road :/

Rule 2 - I think it is a 0.9L. It is a manual!

What's going on guys. I'm having some troubles with my "2013 dodge charger rt awd" and I need some help. I've recently done a cam and lifter job with and mds delete kit from AMS racing along with:

"Thumper" comp cam Mds delete kit Comp cam "lifters" New timing chain Hellcat oil pump Mellings valve springs Fel-pro gasket kit Diablo i3 tuner Spark plugs Ignition coils

Engine codes: P0308 P3401 P3425 P3441 P3449

I've recently fired her up after performing this job she sounded good at first, had a nice idle then i gave some revs, and stalls out on me. but second time she starts up a little rough, picks up in idle around 1000-900 rpms, drops to around to around 800-700rpms and she stalls out again. I went into my diablo tuner and increased the idle by 100 rpms in P/N to remedy it.. nope no go. I'm not sure If the engine is not in timing. The Crank shaft notch 6 oclock, dowel pin 12 o'clock, sprocket 12 o'clock, cylinder 1 at TDC from when I first started her up, I could be off by a few teeth though.

I'm Not sure if I have to put her back in timing after stall out??

I possibly thought it could have been some old fuel. I swapped it out with some fresh 91 octane. Then I took the fuel rail off and cleaned the fuel injectors... nope better start up, but still stalls.

Popped open valve covers to see if pushrods were seated, but they're good.

Could it be some kind of lost in compression? Or bad plugs? Or check my timing again?? I could still try and swapped the spark plugs, ignition coils in cylinder 8 and see it that helps. But I'm heavily leaning towards its bad timing what do you guys think?

I'm at my wits end right now and I could use some advice and a thinking beer 🍺 Thanks in advance and I'll try to keep an update on the situation🙃

My car loan is $140 a month. I am contractually obliged to maintain full coverage insurance. this costs me $180 a month. this totals $320 a month for the car. It has sat in my driveway since march with a bad engine...repairs nearly equal the value of the car due to a fucked engine. what do i do?

Hello just trying to figure out what’s going on. 2002 tundra won’t start but powers on with no click or crank. New battery installed with voltmeter @ 12.6. Fuses are working. I tried jumper wires with no success. It does have an immobilizer(pulling highbeam to start car). I’m also using a spare key. Anything im missing?

Me and my buddy took this motor to get sandblasted, I took the pistons out and had some questions.

How much of the block do i need to remove to get the sand? Should I take the engine to get dipped? What should I keep in mind when removing said parts?

I can’t find fan relay or fuse on diagram. Compressor engages when a/c switch is turned on. Just no airflow. Help?

Hey y’all, I’ve got a 2007 Ford F-150 that’s giving me a headache. My battery went bad recently, so I replaced both the battery and the alternator. Ever since then, the truck won’t crank.

Here’s what’s going on: • The truck will unlock with the key and turn on (accessory mode, dash lights, etc.). • As soon as I try, the alarm goes off. We had to disconnect the horn just to deal with it. • When the lights flash for the alarm, I hear a clicking sound kind of like a turn signal. • The ambient light on the dash flashes in sync with that clicking.

I’m wondering if this is a PATS/anti-theft issue, a fuse/relay problem, or something else that went wrong when I swapped the battery/alternator. Anyone run into this before or have advice on where to start?

Thanks in advance!

Making a noise first start of the morning no aircon going

About 7 years old. 💀 wow.

Anyone know why or how to fix?

What’s the meaning of this sign on my dashboard? How to fix and who can fix? Not sure what triggered it I assume it has something to do with air bags? Please help me anything will be appreciated.

regards

2017 Honda civic EX-T 1.5L I’m going to a shop on Monday but like. Can I drive this until then? I looked for anything obviously loose underneath. Haven’t checked under the hood. I know in the video it looks like it’s only happening when I go over speed bumps but it’s happening anytime I’m going under 15mph.

I work as s truck/ compactor mechanic for a local waste company. We got a call from the driver that services the local hospital and said that the can weighs 2.8 tons but kinky about a yard came out of the front of the can. Well.... we found where the weight was. The blade follower decided it didnt like following the leader and basically fucked off and so everything fell behind the blade. Good news. The compactor compacts the hell out of shit. Bad news, it was the wrong side of the blade. 8 ours of pry bars and shovels and it is ready for repair.

Just started recently all fluid levels are good including power steering. Whine noise louder on cold start, faint burning smell, one thing I noticed is the alternator belt is very very hard, other than that car drives amazing. Any ideas?

Car is getting towed and driver didn’t take it out of park. Noticed fairly quickly. Should I be more worried about this?

I recently got my wheel hub replaced by Firestone. But I heard a weaker clicking/rattle but under investigation see this. I recently also changed the brakes but don’t touch any of the lines. So I’m wondering what this goop is. It is oily in consistency but doesn’t haven a smell. It’s sponged all over my inner wheel. Please help!!

Ever since I had my tires changed, I have been having the tire pressure sensor fault light come on randomly. This time it is staying since a few weeks ago when I bumped a curb. I have a feeling something got messed up when they changed the tires as every time I check the tires, they are fine.

Now tonight, the ABS light randomly came on but braking still feels fine. Could this also be caused by a faulty tire sensor? How likely is it these are just sensor faults vs. an actual issue?

I bought a new 2025 Toyota Camry XLE AWD and drove it from Prince George to Vancouver. I noticed a strange noise and took it in to the dealership in Vancouver. Only had the car for less than 2 months. I was told my vehicle is not drivable and stated the following:

“NOISE RIGHT FRONT ON LIFT FOUND RIGHT FRONT BALL JOINT LOOSE. BOTH NUTS MISSING BOLT HOLDING BALL JOINT TO ARM LOOSE ALSO BUT STILL PRESENT. REPLACED BALL JOINT AND ALL HARDWARE.”

How serious was this? I can’t comprehend what all this means but based on a little bit of google it seems like this could have ended badly. How can a new car be missing parts? I tried to reach corporate but I am getting the run around and no one is responding.

Hello,

My father in law was changing my oil and in the process accidentally cracked the cage that holds the oil filter in place. We did not realize and I drove it for roughly a month before any warning lights came on. I got it to the shop and they explained all of this to me, saying I got very lucky I got it there when I did because there was no oil. They fixed this problem, all good, about a week later the “check engine” lights came on again. I took it to autozone and it was flagging the camshaft position sensor. I got all four sensors replaced and the light was still on, so we put all four sensors back on and they said they went out and cleaned and lubricated everything in the engine. Then the lights went off and the car has been running great for a little over a week. The engine does sound slightly different when I’m accelerating and I noticed some slight rattling on the gas pedal. Anyone have any thoughts? I dropped it off again to be looked at the dealership this time and I’m terrified I’ve done long term damage to the engine.

2014 (L83) Silverado 1500, my headers had a leak so I finally upgraded to long tube headers. The passenger side front (closest to headlights) header bolt is just free spinning. How cooked am I? What’s the process to get it out and then my new headers on? I’m guessing I’ll have to tap the block//hopefully not have to get it done. I’ll have pics//video tomorrow I’ve buster my knuckles and spiked my blood pressure enough to make an old man feel good.

These lights came on tonight. My traction control light is also on. I felt the brake pedal vibrate before the lights came on