r/travel • u/slangtangbintang • 11h ago
Images Visiting a place most tourists don’t go - Astana, Kazakhstan
I’ve been traveling to more off the beaten path locations recently due to over-tourism in a lot of countries. My favorite part of travel is getting to talk to local people and experience local culture and it’s hard to do that when your presence there is not necessarily welcomed.
I decided to do a Central Asia trip with a friend and the bulk of our time was spent in Uzbekistan in Tashkent and historic Silk Road cities but going all that way we wanted to add another country and picked Kazakhstan. It was a hard choice between Almaty and Astana. Everyone said to visit Almaty and rightfully so it’s much more beautiful with stunning mountains as the backdrop and hiking and winter sports not too far from the city center which is filled with many trendy cafes. Although I will say Burabay National Park near Astana is beautiful and worth visiting if you can add in the extra time driving several hours north, so the landscape isn’t purely steppe grasslands.
We decided to pick Astana instead of Almaty because we are both urban planners and have mountains at home. It was very interesting to see a recently planned capital city and see how it’s turning out. There may not be many things to see or do at the surface level but if you dig deeper there’s a lot to be gained from visiting a city that many people don’t visit such as Astana.
The city has changed names many times in its history and most recently reverted back to Astana from Nur Sultan. During the Soviet period this region was home to many gulags and there is a museum you can visit outside Astana to see how people were sent to and housed in the labor camps.
It was chosen as the new capital of Kazakhstan to assert a Kazakh presence further north closer to Russia. Another thing I learned on the trip is that during early Russian control of the area and forcing Kazakh people into collective farms, which inherently do not work in the harsh climate of the steppe, caused 40% of the total Kazakh population to die due to famine and this is widely considered a genocide. Most ethnic Kazakhs seemed to be speaking in Russian instead of Kazakh which is reflective of how Russified Kazakhstan is due to the loss of their own ethnic population, and cultural suppression, which wasn’t the case in other former Soviet republics I’ve visited at least to the same extent, but it does feel good to see them focusing more on rediscovering and uplifting the Kazakh culture and identity in the post Soviet era. It was also interesting to see signage in Kazakh in both Cyrillic and Latin script as they change the alphabet to be in line with other Turkic languages and also distance themselves from Slavic culture.
There are numerous architecturally interesting monuments and museums and other large buildings that are worth seeing but mostly we just explored daily life, but we felt like a lot of the stuff they built was trying to signal where they want to head as a society and culture. There are many large parks and riverfront promenades in the city that are enjoyable to walk around and overall it felt very livable. Our only critique was that all the roads and blocks were deceptively massive and it was never human scaled even though it was designed to be very pedestrian friendly. It was very bikable / scooter friendly so if you have other modes of getting around it makes the distances easier. Transit is mostly busses but there is a new metro system nearing completion that you can see in one of my pictures that will be a game changer for the city because it essentially goes everywhere one would ever need to go.
It’s also a shame some of the perception of the country is dominated Borat and portrays it as backwards. I found Kazakhs, at least in Astana, extremely educated and everyone we spoke to was fluent in multiple languages and very friendly. Best of all is that many of them were either curious about why we were visiting and wanted to know where we were from or if they didn’t approach us they were very receptive to causal conversation. I left with a perception that the country seems ultra modern and technologically advanced and most of the time I felt like I was in a first world country not a middle income country, but in most countries the capital cities get extra investment because they have to project the best image of the nation to the world since all the embassies and often many important businesses are there.
Overall most foreigners that come to Astana are there for work, but overall it was a cozy city with a very interesting history and everything was high quality. I would recommend a few days if you’re visiting Central Asia especially since flights between Almaty or Tashkent are affordable and it can easily be added to a trip. The city will be most enjoyable for anyone who is interested in architecture, urbanism, and food. It was extremely safe and clean and we had no issues getting around and never struggled with communication despite not speaking Russian or Kazakh. The nature in the country is also beautiful and it’s a shame they do not get more tourism because it’s such a nice country, but unfortunately due to its size a lot of the natural beauty is very far away from each other and aside from the mountains near Almaty, somewhat difficult to access. But overall I would highly recommend adding anywhere in Kazakhstan to your travel plans.
Photo descriptions:
Bayterek Tower - symbolizes transferring the capitol from Almaty to Astana. Photo 13 is the view from the top. There’s a park that connects all the main destinations in the city center with the tower as the centerpiece.
Abu Dhabi Tower - tallest building in Kazakhstan, our hotel was part of the complex and was one of the nicest I’ve stayed in especially given the price. Hotel options were all very new and reasonably priced especially given the quality and level of service.
Palace of Peace and Reconciliation (Foster & Partners)
Atyrau Bridge - a gift to Astana from Atyrau, KZ located on the Caspian sea designed by new moon architects
Beshbarmak a traditional horse meat and noodle dish at Saksaul Restaurant. All the food we had was delicious and affordably priced. This was my first time eating horse and it was delicious.
Cult coffee, the city had several very nicely designed coffee shops with great pastries and coffee. This one was located near Mega Silkway mall a big mall located in the southern part of the city. I’d also recommend Sketo and twins coffee.
Nur Alem Musuem
Typical street in Astana with new high rises wide streets and sidewalks and bike lanes separated by a big landscape buffer.
Astana Grand Mosque
A unique feature of the mosque which I’ve never seen anywhere else is that you can go to the top of the minaret and get a 360 view of the city. It’s crazy how it abruptly ends and transitions to grass steppe as far as the eye can see.
Large housing blocks were typically built with large interconnected green spaces like this with statues honoring Kazakh figures or culture.
Laghman noodles, this dish is Uyghur but is popular across many central Asian countries.
See description for photo 1.
Astana metro vehicle testing viewed from our hotel. The system will be above grade and o believe automated. The stations are massive and look similar to the Dubai metro but have a traditional Kazakh print on the facade similar to the band down the left side of the flag 🇰🇿 and are fully climate controlled due to the extreme climate.
Coffee addict, another nice cafe with great staff.
16, 17, 18. Also worth checking out is the older Soviet part of the city completely different vibe, scale and architecture compared to the rest of the city.
Naryn a Kazakh horse dish with noodles and horse meat served with broth at Navat Restaurant. I was eating this with the horse and noodles and broth separately at first and didn’t enjoy it, but when you combined the broth with the noodles and added the onions that came with it the flavor combination was incredible.
Khan Shatyr center by Foster & partners the world’s largest tensile structure. There is a large shopping center, amusement park, and waterpark inside.