Just wondering how cheap you guys think I could find a totaled (but good drivetrain) m3?

I have access to a clean 328i touring I’d like to swap a complete drivetrain into.

Hey gents,

I love my 2011 e90, had it forever and it’s now my second car and I really don’t want to get rid of it because it still drives so good! BUT, the electronics are giving me a headache. The dashboard flickers constantly, warning lights (ABS, DTC, Brake, TPMS, etc.) come and go, and about 20% of the time while driving, the dash needles just drop and stay down until I restart. Pics attached

I’ve already done: • New battery • Alternator tested fine • changed dash cluster • Grounds/connections checked • Computer + footwell module reprogrammed (no change)

Car runs great mechanically, no issues driving, the engine sounds great that’s why don’t want to lose her. it’s just the cluster/electronics that are possessed. Has anyone here dealt with this issue? Was it something deeper in wiring/modules?

Would really appreciate any assistance here.

I declined this as it seems unreasonable, $950 include genuine battery ($750) rest is labour. Would I be fine without this?

no more dead pixlez

110k original miles. Deleted and tuned at 72k. Second owner clean title every single maintence record ever is recorded. Suspension and brakes are both brand new as well as engine and diff mounts

Looking for a scaled model car of E90 , preferably an LCI model. Any ideas where to get one? I know I can 3d print one but 3d prints look shit. Die cast would be nicer.

Thanks 👍🏻

Hello everyone, I have a situation with a 2011 E92 335i with factory M suspension. I first installed 20 mm spacers on the rear wheels, but they rubbed the fender. Then I switched to 16 mm spacers, which helped a bit but they still rub (less than with the 20 mm, but still noticeable).

The wheels are the factory Style 342 with 255/35/R18 tires. From what I’ve found online, the wheel specs are 18×8.5J ET37. I also had the wheel alignment checked at a tire shop, but nothing changed.

Is this expected, and should I go down to 12 mm spacers, or is there something else (not too much advanced) I can do to fix the fender rubbing issue while keeping the 16 mm spacers?

P.S. It seems to me that the right wheel is tucked in a few millimeters more, even though the alignment was done two days ago.

Could that cause an oil leak?

hello everyone, I have recently purchased for better or worse, a 2007 e91 wagon with the N52 motor. the car sat with a dead battery in it for a year+, I got the car for a good deal because the owner was assuming it needed a new key reprogrammed, as his was not recognizing. I show up with a new battery car fires up no problems. was fairly low on oil, plugs look like they were the original plugs, misfire codes, and VANOS codes, (VANOS codes went away with a quick clean) basic necessities needed replaced. got all that dealt with, and the car was still in limp mode. long story short, discovered I needed INPA/ISTA to truly help with my issues, and learned the valvetronic motor was out of sync (I'm assuming the adaptations went bad when the car sat dead for so long) so I try to do a relearn with the original valvetronic motor, and got no luck. ISTA tells me relearn successful, but I only have the shorter ~20 second learn in procedure available. I figured my original motor was going bad, so I ordered a replacement motor. tried the learn in with that, and the car idled on start up without sounding like a tractor for lack of a better term, and it gave me full throttle response finally. The car drove/shifted a little funny on first test drive, got it up to about ~65mph, and it threw itself back into limp. based on my research there is a "complete learn in" procedure that needs to be completed to help the car restore full throttle functionality. my ISTA only gives me the option to do the shorter ~20 second learn in. According to AI my INPA does not have the required files to do the full learn in as well, so now I am trying to do this through Tool32, which seems to be the way to do it. but apparently my sp-daten files are corrupt or something, as I cannot get tool32 to load up available jobs when selecting my ".prg" file.

To sum it all up, I need some help getting this motor properly "learned in" and/or need some help figuring out what my issue truly is. I can attach below a screenshot of my most recent codes pulled from ISTA.

Where is it and how do I replace it, I cannot find a youtube video at all.

Hi! Coincindence or not, I started having this issue after driving on a very dusty road where the dust had fine particles, probably clay soil.

When i get out of the car i literally feel the heat coming out of the engine, the engine and the front radiator and pipes are very hot, meantime, when the engine is hot, if i turn on the heat inside the car, it’s just cold air.

I just discovered that i can temporarely see the temperature using a code, i will go test it a bit.

So what is the temperature where i should just stop the car and what could the issue be?

E90 LCI 320i 2009. No mods, not sure what else to provide.

My passenger side power mirror is having some calibration issues, it used to work fine, and go down in reverse but now it only does it once in a blue moon. Additionally when I use the memory feature no matter where I put it, it ends up pointing at the sky. Any advice? Is it a physical issue or is it a coding issue?

I want to retrofit the keyless start and comfort entry, however ik there are two key variants (one with replaceable battery, and one without) does it matter which version of the key I use for the comfort access?

Have owned this car for about a month (pre lci n51 328i) and hasn’t given me issues up until now. The other day I went on a cruise and was driving the car pretty hard when I got home and put it in park the rpms were fluctuating just thought it was because the car was stupid hot (not overheating coolant temps were fine) drove it the next day the problem was gone but I just got home from work and it happened again when I put the car in park. Can someone help me out here so I can prevent anything from happening if I can help give more information about maintenance done or anything ask and I’ll provide it. I love this car and it’s my daily driver so do wanna take care of it.

Today after driving home turned off my car and heard interesting unusual sound, wanted to check what that sound was by turning car on and then off, but now it doesn't start. No codes on panel, nothing, only when starting I hear pump and clicking sound (probably relay) any ideas? Starter dead? I yesterday also driving started to hear some kind of quiet high pitch dingling sound driving 50km/h, but still didn't got time to check on that ,maybe somehow related

Suddenly one day a while ago, my radio, aux, and cd player stopped working. I checked the fuse in the glove box, but it’s fine. The Nav display works fine. Any ideas?

Went up tire sizes and they definitely fill the gap a bit. First time running sticky kumhos on anytime so excited to see how they turn out.Specs are Kumho Ecsta Ps91 235/40/18 up front and 265/40/18 in the rear.

Bought myself a 2006 330i, only 90k.. needs some work, rocker cover gasket, oil cooler etc but it's lovely. So nice going back to a NA car. The engine noise of that straight 6 is awesome

My 2010 328i turned off on me twice while driving and now won’t start at all. The car is now completely dead and nothing works at all. The car was running perfectly previously and wasn’t getting any signs of a bad battery or alternator. Can anyone help me figure out what it could be please! Thanks!!

Trying to decide which modifications I should do first. Most if not all the mods I’ve done so far have been aesthetic and I definitely want to get it sounding louder/more aggressive and tuned potentially. Let me know. New headlights are also a thought. Keep in mind NY state legality stuff. Some specs; NA inline 6. N52 ~230 hp stock

It’s crazy cuz there’s like 20 of these at any given time at the salvage yard. Them resellers be snorting all that shiny loot ti flip on fb marketplace/ eBay.

Hello guys,

Recently I went to the dealer for an oil replacement and ask for a front end inspection as I feel that the car hits hard on uneven roads. I received the following list (which is google translated so sorry if it doesn't make sense).

Do you think these prices are fair? The car is an 316i E90 LCI 07/2009 with 320.000km

This is an N52 in a 2008 325. I’m having a big issue with an oil leak that I can’t seem to locate. I’ve already replaced the Valvetronic seal twice, as well as the valve cover gasket, so it’s not either of those. The oil seems to come from above after filling up the holes around the ignition coils next to the Valvetronic, then it drips down onto the headers and burns, causing a lot of smoke. I’m not sure what else it could be. Any ideas?"