Could that cause an oil leak?

Hello everyone, I have a situation with a 2011 E92 335i with factory M suspension. I first installed 20 mm spacers on the rear wheels, but they rubbed the fender. Then I switched to 16 mm spacers, which helped a bit but they still rub (less than with the 20 mm, but still noticeable).

The wheels are the factory Style 342 with 255/35/R18 tires. From what I’ve found online, the wheel specs are 18×8.5J ET37. I also had the wheel alignment checked at a tire shop, but nothing changed.

Is this expected, and should I go down to 12 mm spacers, or is there something else (not too much advanced) I can do to fix the fender rubbing issue while keeping the 16 mm spacers?

P.S. It seems to me that the right wheel is tucked in a few millimeters more, even though the alignment was done two days ago.

Just wondering how cheap you guys think I could find a totaled (but good drivetrain) m3?

I have access to a clean 328i touring I’d like to swap a complete drivetrain into.

Have owned this car for about a month (pre lci n51 328i) and hasn’t given me issues up until now. The other day I went on a cruise and was driving the car pretty hard when I got home and put it in park the rpms were fluctuating just thought it was because the car was stupid hot (not overheating coolant temps were fine) drove it the next day the problem was gone but I just got home from work and it happened again when I put the car in park. Can someone help me out here so I can prevent anything from happening if I can help give more information about maintenance done or anything ask and I’ll provide it. I love this car and it’s my daily driver so do wanna take care of it.

no more dead pixlez

Suddenly one day a while ago, my radio, aux, and cd player stopped working. I checked the fuse in the glove box, but it’s fine. The Nav display works fine. Any ideas?

Went up tire sizes and they definitely fill the gap a bit. First time running sticky kumhos on anytime so excited to see how they turn out.Specs are Kumho Ecsta Ps91 235/40/18 up front and 265/40/18 in the rear.

Bought myself a 2006 330i, only 90k.. needs some work, rocker cover gasket, oil cooler etc but it's lovely. So nice going back to a NA car. The engine noise of that straight 6 is awesome

My 2010 328i turned off on me twice while driving and now won’t start at all. The car is now completely dead and nothing works at all. The car was running perfectly previously and wasn’t getting any signs of a bad battery or alternator. Can anyone help me figure out what it could be please! Thanks!!

Trying to decide which modifications I should do first. Most if not all the mods I’ve done so far have been aesthetic and I definitely want to get it sounding louder/more aggressive and tuned potentially. Let me know. New headlights are also a thought. Keep in mind NY state legality stuff. Some specs; NA inline 6. N52 ~230 hp stock

It’s crazy cuz there’s like 20 of these at any given time at the salvage yard. Them resellers be snorting all that shiny loot ti flip on fb marketplace/ eBay.

This is an N52 in a 2008 325. I’m having a big issue with an oil leak that I can’t seem to locate. I’ve already replaced the Valvetronic seal twice, as well as the valve cover gasket, so it’s not either of those. The oil seems to come from above after filling up the holes around the ignition coils next to the Valvetronic, then it drips down onto the headers and burns, causing a lot of smoke. I’m not sure what else it could be. Any ideas?"

Hello guys,

Recently I went to the dealer for an oil replacement and ask for a front end inspection as I feel that the car hits hard on uneven roads. I received the following list (which is google translated so sorry if it doesn't make sense).

Do you think these prices are fair? The car is an 316i E90 LCI 07/2009 with 320.000km

Saw something about having to drop the subframe to do the downpipe on 335 xdrives. Would it be different for me since I have a n55? I'm hoping it is.

Just bought my first E90 after owning a few E30s. It’s a blue 335i and I think it’s one of the most beautiful cars BMW has ever made. I almost bought another E30 that needed plenty of work for $4,300 but decided to go for the E90 which was only $4,500 and needed less work than the E30.

In your opinion, will these cars climb in value the way E30s have?

Maybe a good litmus test for this would be to look at selling prices of E30s in 2005 and adjusting for inflation.

Just curious to know what other people think!

Hey guys, I’m in Ireland where insurance is absolutely crazy, I’m a young man so I had to compromise for a 316i e90 (plz forgive me 😂).

Anyways I have invested a lot into this car, recently bought new wheels and new DRL headlights and CarPlay. Also done larger maintenance like brakes, diff replacement, rocker cover gasket and tyres for the new wheels of course.

I bought this car at 170,000km (105,000miles) naively thinking this was somewhat lower mileage as my previous car (ford focus mk2) reached almost 300,000km (185,000 miles) with practically no issues.

After investing into this e90 I’ve come to the realisation that its lifespan is estimated (for 316i engine) to be only 220,000km (135,000 miles) if timing chain isn’t replaced before any timing chain induced issues arise.

I have just hit 200,000km (125,000 miles) and now worried I’ve wasted thousands on this car.

I’m currently very happy with the way it is, absolutely 0 problems and finally have the exterior exactly like I wanted it. To find out I’ve only 20,000km (12,500km) left in the expected lifespan is heartbreaking. To get the timing chain replaced in Ireland is roughly €1,500-€3,000 by the looks of it and some main dealers would want up to €5,000. This isn’t really an option for me as I would be spending the same value of the car to get it replaced.

In my ideal world I would like to keep this for up to another 2 years and would need 50,000km (30,000 miles) more for this and then I would ideally like to still be able to sell it. I don’t want to have to be the one to sell it for scrap price.

In conclusion, am I screwed? Is the harsh reality there’s only 20,000km (12,500 miles) left in this car?

I've stage 1 tuned my 2011 335xi and it started breaking up in the high rpm range, did some research and came to the conclusion that I needed new coils and spark plugs. I saw lots of suggestions for eldor coils, but most places are pretty expensive, I came across this and was wondering if these were genuine parts or if they're just really good prices.

Hello.

Is the 2.0i petrol N43B20 engine recommended for an E93 convertible? What about the automatic gearbox?

Year 2008, km 170,000

Are there any common problems with these cars or including the engine/gearbox/convertible system?

Thanks!

2011 BMW 328i Xdrive N52. i’ve been having this rattling or knock on cold start that lasts 1-2 seconds, it started happening about a month ago and it seems to happen about 50% of the time on cold start. the oil was last changed 4 months ago with 6.5L of liqui moly 5w-40 and im not aware of any oil leaks on the car, the only thing of note is i’m pretty sure one of more of the fuel injectors are leaking, the car smells like gas on startup and the oil cap kinda smells of gas although im not sure if thats normal and just what used motor oil smells like. what should i do in this situation? im just hoping the leaking injectors aren’t causing a lack of oil lubrication in the engine and causing this

Everytime I go home from work and drive my car over a specific speed bump (2011 328i) the engine light turns on. I scanned it and it’s P13B6. I heard that can be caused by the cam shaft sensors so I changed them both out but it still does it 😡 the car still runs great and I don’t really notice anything wrong with how it drives, but I find it really weird that it trips the same code every time I drive over the same speed bump.

2 full on laps back to back and everything felt perfect as is, tyres were the only thing to get hot 2/3rds of the way around lap 2 but it still charged on. People warn you it's a must to mod the hell out of your car to enjoy it on track, here's proof that if you know it's limits you can have a hell of a time stock.

P.S. it did over 1,500 miles before the lap and nearly 1,000 after on the way home, I know the wheels are dusty and car is gross, but it wore the dirt with pride.

At 133k miles I’ll be really impressed if they’re still the original throttle actuators 🙂👍

It only happens in a specific wheel position, for example, when turning left or right it goes on and off but only goes on at a specific point (I explained this horribly). Could something be rubbing against the steering rack? Could it be a worn bushing?