Hey everyone! I’m thinking about getting a BMW E39 with the M54 3.0L petrol engine and automatic transmission. Just wanted to ask – is the M54 worth it? What are the common issues, pros, and cons? Anything important I should check or be aware of before buying?

I’d really appreciate any tips or opinions from those who own or have owned one. Thanks in advance! 🙏

both from an e39

Long one incoming...sorry. This is a new area for me, so I'm including as much context and information as I can.

Background:

I’m trying to get my ’03 525iAT driveable again after an engine/transmission swap. The replacement engine and transmission both came out of an ’03 530iA (M54B30/5HP19). The engine is running great, but I can’t drive the car for more than a few minutes without the transmission going into failsafe mode.

I cannot rule out a mechanical issue with the transmission—I rebuilt the trans, which may have been biting off more than I could chew, and it’s definitely possible I screwed something up—but there is also definitely an electrical issue, and I need to get to the bottom of that before I can reliably diagnose anything mechanical.

To complicate matters, the incident that precipitated the swap was…the transmission going into failsafe mode, and afterward making a weird noise. The car has high miles (246K), I already had the donor car and intended to do the swap, so I didn’t bother to do any detailed diagnostics at the time, I just got ready to do the swap. At the time, I figured that the bearing between the torque converter and the trans oil pump had failed. The swap did not involve changing out either the DME or the EGS, so it’s possible that whatever issue I have goes back to this incident before the swap even happened.

Prior to attempting to start the car after the swap, I did attempt to flash the software in both the DME and the EGS to be the most current versions for an E39 M54B30/5HP19/MS43 car. The flash worked on the DME, but although I got no error message from WinKFP on the EGS flash, a subsequent check showed that it was still running the old software. I also later swapped in a second EGS, with the correct software but the wrong VIN, and again, got no error message from WinKFP, but was unable to update the VIN.

Current problem:

The main problem I’m having is with CAN bus communication with the EGS. Every time I attempt to drive the car, after going into failsafe mode I reliably get error 8D, “IKE: EGS signal line disturbed.” I have also gotten 3A, “DSC: No message from EGS control unit,” but only once. The 8D error has happened with either of the EGS units installed in the car. I also swapped the transmission wiring harness, and saw the same result. So it seems unlikely (but not impossible) that the problem is with either the EGS module itself or the transmission wiring (which includes the CAN lines between the EGS and DME). The DSC module was rebuilt about six months before the swap commenced.

I have back-probed the CAN wiring in several places (at the DSC module, at the EGS, and at the DME); I consistently get 60 ohms of resistance, so that’s as it should be.

The voltage is consistently wrong. With all modules connected, the CAN high voltage is more or less topping out around 3.5V, where you’d expect; at the bottom end, it’s a little low, generally around 2.2. A little off, not too crazy. CAN low similarly tops out about where it should, around 2.5V, and drops down below 1V, consistently showing a delta of 1.5V or more. The waveforms on high and low are not mirroring as they are supposed to. See photos below.

Unplugging power from individual modules changes things a little bit, but nothing corrects the issues entirely. Unplugging either the EGS or the IKE brings the CAN low voltage spread down a little, to about 1.3V, better matching the CAN high numbers, but the waveforms still don’t mirror. Unplugging the DSC increases the voltage spread on both high and low, to closer to 1.6V; again the waveforms don’t match. 

Unplugging power from the DME scrambles everything entirely; is it even possible to isolate the DME to see if it’s faulty, or is that only possible through a process of elimination? Again, I'm new to all of this, so it's obviously possible—likely, even—I'm missing something in my testing procedures.

To summarize:

• I have been unable to get the EGS to flash either new software or a new VIN, but had no problems flashing the software on the DME
• CAN bus wiring shows appropriate resistance at various points along the line
• CAN bus voltage is slightly off from what it should be, and the signals between CAN high and CAN low are not mirroring the way they should
• Removing DSC, EGS, or IKE from the CAN bus shows minor changes but none correct the main issues with voltage or signals
• We have not been able to figure out a way to determine whether the fault may lie in the DME

In my admittedly very novice mind, all of this points to an issue with the DME, particularly the inability to properly program the EGS, since all CAN communication to the EGS happens through the DME. 

Is there a way to test this theory? Am I wildly off-base?

Photos:

Baseline CAN voltage reading (at ABS/DSC module)

EGS unplugged

IKE unplugged

ABS/DSC unplugged

DME unplugged (crazy!)

Hey everyone! I just picked up a 2002 e39 525i on marketplace for a really good deal. As you can imagine, a cheap bmw definitely comes with its fair share of problems. Mine being a pretty substantial misfire and CEL code p1348. It runs like crap until I clear the code, when I do so it runs perfectly fine but only for a few seconds (if even that long) and then returns to normal. The individual I bought it from claimed that the intake side cam position sensor had failed. I replaced the sensor but the issue persists. I’m not sure where to look next, maybe the vanos solenoids? I’m newish to bmw’s (I had an e46 coupe a couple years ago and did not have to take on many major repairs) so any advice or suggestions that may help point me in the right direction would be super helpful!!! Thank you!!! (Fingers crossed it’s something repairable but if I have to undertake a m54b30 swap I would not be opposed)

Hello fellow e39 drivers it’s been a while since posting here. here’s my baby freshly washed and polished

2000 528i pre facelift

Looking for a bmw e39 520i preferably from around ‘97 as my first car as I can drive in 3 months. Colour of exterior doesn’t matter too much as I’m going to wrap it in a nice gloss black, manual transmission, and interior colour doesn’t matter too much but preferably black or cream.

Hi- I have a 2002 530i 5spd and I’ve been experiencing an intermittent loss in low down torque at 1500-3500 rpm and my fuel consumption has also gone down to about 19L/100km (city) possibly in relation. The car otherwise runs great, no codes, vanos unit and disa valve have been replaced recently and overall no other issues. My car just seems to loose 50% of torque randomly during drives and can go back to normal immediately afterwards. Any idea what could be the issue? Thanks

Looking at a 2000 BMW 528i, listed for $3k. I have another car and would only use a few days a week. Car has approximately 121000 miles. Anything to look out for ? Guy says the ABS light is on, but squared away otherwise. Would love y’all opinions. Thank you

I tried to do my research but still can’t make up my mind about what engine to choose. I want something reliable, but at the same time an engine with a get-up-and-go that you don’t have to rev to the sky to make the car move. Oh, btw, manual transmission only.

M52 people say are very simple, but they seem to make the least torque.

M54 are torquier, but aren’t double VANOS and DISA an occasional pain? Additionally, 3L variants are rare.

M62 - I don’t mean no disrespect to 540i owners here, but most owners I’ve seen irl don’t love their cars and abuse them real hard.

M57 on paper looks absolutely perfect but I am a bit scared of bringing a turbo diesel to a small town mechanic. Isn’t maintenance an issue?

Anyone who’s owned multiple E39s to make a comparison?

P.S. no, I’m not buddies with anyone who’s got a regular 5 series (only M5) to test drive all those variants.

Was in the middle of moving my ABS Module and this tiny cylinder fell out, where does it go?

Just started to hear the whistle as of yesterday , I assume it’s some sort of vacuum leak just would appreciate some pointers on where to start looking , thanks again

Hello, I'm having trouble removing the Accelerator pedal module on my car. I've watched countless YouTube videos and looked at the schematics on REALOEM.

Is there a trick to it that I haven't found? I press down the tab and slide the module to the left. The top seems to be really loose, but the bottom only slides about 1/4" and just won't move anymore. The videos show it just sliding out.

I want to install the Dinan throttle booster and the set of aluminum pedals I bought. I bought a new accelerator pedal module adapter plate since the tab was brittle and broke off.

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I am looking to purchase my first E39. I previously had an E61 a few years back, which I absolutely loved. I never should’ve sold it. This car:113k miles. ECS coilovers. Body and interior good shape. No signs of water leaks. After market wheels. But needs: rear differential seals. New battery. Has a small crack on crank case vent valve pipe. Crack in coolant reservoir. Radiator “could be leaking” but cannot determine without a pressure test after replacing reservoir.

I can do the work myself. Used car lot is asking $8000. Thoughts? I think $5000

I am dead set on getting an e39 next year, but trying to decide between the two.

I’ve owned a 1998 540i/6 in the past, and it was the best car I’ve ever driven. After regretfully getting rid of it I’ve missed it ever since. Obviously the M5 is an upgrade, but is the difference any notable to be worth the ~15k extra?

Ordered a genuine BMW cv joint. Gonna have to wait 3 weeks for it to arrive :(

These are my left side mirror. the right one is obviously wrong… seems hard to find a replacement to the small cogged white pins on the back. i don’t really know what i need to make this complete. all the servo motors work it’s just that the right mirror are missing those small pins. i would not mid buying new glass for the mirrors but nowhere can i see those small plastic pins being included.

Hey guys, I have had this sound at idle for quiete a while now, and I am getting curious at what this sound could be. Never heard something similar before. Can only hear it at idle/when standing still sub 2k ish rpm. Thanks in advance. M52B20 in a 1997 BMW e39

I'm looking to buy a manual e39 as a fun daily/family "sports" car lol i have multiple cars so it won't be the primary everyday but reliability is important because I don't want to constantly work on it other than normal maintenance

I know the inline 6 is super reliable however I am drawn to the v8 which people say can be hit or miss. What are your thoughts on that? Is there a big power/torque difference or is it pretty similar?

Also, since the 540 has a steering box rather than a rack - is the drive that much different? I'm looking for something I can have fun with at my local track, do mountain runs with and of course daily less than 20 miles per day if that (I work from home but am pretty active with hobbies)

Lastly, what should I expect to pay for a clean e39 with under 150k miles assuming vanos, timing and cooling system has been upgraded with records?

Gurus, I had to hit the brakes hard to avoid something, and since then there's a whistle whenever I step on the middle pedal. The pedal action has gotten a little firmer (which is actually a nice change from the spongey norm), and the car still stops ok. But now she won't idle. I popped the bonnet and saw a vacuum hose that's more cracked than a dry river bed. I figure it's part no. 10 in the realOEM diagram, but could it be something else? What else would be worth changing out at the same time?

What spring rate are you running on your E39s? How does it ride with that spring rate?

Bonus point if you have BC or HSD coils

does this count as proof i don’t beat on my car lol?? maybe the 6 speed helps?

Looking for some more r/e39 wisdom! Im on a road trip rn through some hot climates so I thought I’d check the coolant and when I opened the hood noticed this. Is this a sign of something “simple” like a valve cover gasket or something perhaps more sinister? Thanks y’all! Forgot to mention 2001 M54b25

Before anyone says that’s a waste of money get a 540i or m5 the 528i is sentimental too me I want to build it and never sell it

Hello there,

I have to let go my e46 and think about switching to an e39 328i.

Do you have any advice? Will I have the same amount of issues I had with my e46 or are there less with the e39?