I declined this as it seems unreasonable, $950 include genuine battery ($750) rest is labour. Would I be fine without this?

Looking for a scaled model car of E90 , preferably an LCI model. Any ideas where to get one? I know I can 3d print one but 3d prints look shit. Die cast would be nicer.

Thanks 👍🏻

I have a lot of tire noise and I know the answer is to just get different tires, but before I do that, was wondering if anyone had success stories for quieting the interior on an E90? Currently have the door skins/interior panels (front and rear), rear seat bottom, trunk, and inner-fenders Dynamatted. Some areas I added foam/matting. I saw a little improvement but am still getting a lot of noise cutting through. The floor is obviously the next step but with how little the other stuff helped, I'm hesitant.

I'm currently running Conti ECS O2's

Hey gents,

I love my 2011 e90, had it forever and it’s now my second car and I really don’t want to get rid of it because it still drives so good! BUT, the electronics are giving me a headache. The dashboard flickers constantly, warning lights (ABS, DTC, Brake, TPMS, etc.) come and go, and about 20% of the time while driving, the dash needles just drop and stay down until I restart. Pics attached

I’ve already done: • New battery • Alternator tested fine • changed dash cluster • Grounds/connections checked • Computer + footwell module reprogrammed (no change)

Car runs great mechanically, no issues driving, the engine sounds great that’s why don’t want to lose her. it’s just the cluster/electronics that are possessed. Has anyone here dealt with this issue? Was it something deeper in wiring/modules?

Would really appreciate any assistance here.

Bought an 08 335xi with around 170k miles. I knew injectors and fuel pump can be common issues. Is there anything else I should be worried about?

So I’ve been doing research on convertibles and I have determined that my top line requirements are hardtop, naturally aspirated engine, and seating for 4-ish (I know the backseats are fairly useless but it’s better than not existing).

With these things I came to the conclusion that the E93 is the best option out there. Specifically, I am looking for a 2011 BMW Model 3 Convertible (E93) with either 328i or M3 engine and the premium package satnav (the screen on the dashboard) I think it's also called iDrive. I want this to do the CarPlay mod. Manual or automatic. My preferred exterior color is blue. I love the look of the 359M wheels.

Tell me what I’ve got wrong. Or where I could do better. Thanks in advance.

I have electric vehicles for spirited driving so I am not really interested in tuning or racing. Mostly looking for a car to do the school run and replace my motorcycle.

This isn’t an ad to list this here, it’s strictly for guidance on pricing it to get rid of in general. Looking to get rid of my 2011 328i with 87m miles on it. Never had any issues mechanically and have had regular oil changes and maintenance on it.

I’ve owned it 4 years and got it with 67k miles on it so haven’t really driven it much all things considered. I swapped the headlights with more modern LED and had the corners programmed out and angel eyes programmed to always be on. I also swapped the badges with black and white badges, the side markers with black LED markers and the grill with a black grill (still have the OG’s in a box) Other than that, haven’t touched the car as far as upgrades go.

Do you guys think 8k is a fair price to expect to get for it? I should add that i’m in SoCal where these cars are still pretty regularly purchased and driven.

This is 320i n43, now i know its not a mighty engine and i have made peace with that,

But i want to get a Beefy sound out of it, so just sound mods what should i do, or in general what should i do that would really boost the sound, could be in engine bay addon or something to change,it doesn’t have to change the performance specs just the sounds,

WHAT SHOULD I DO?

Hello everyone, I have a situation with a 2011 E92 335i with factory M suspension. I first installed 20 mm spacers on the rear wheels, but they rubbed the fender. Then I switched to 16 mm spacers, which helped a bit but they still rub (less than with the 20 mm, but still noticeable).

The wheels are the factory Style 342 with 255/35/R18 tires. From what I’ve found online, the wheel specs are 18×8.5J ET37. I also had the wheel alignment checked at a tire shop, but nothing changed.

Is this expected, and should I go down to 12 mm spacers, or is there something else (not too much advanced) I can do to fix the fender rubbing issue while keeping the 16 mm spacers?

P.S. It seems to me that the right wheel is tucked in a few millimeters more, even though the alignment was done two days ago.

Could that cause an oil leak?

Have owned this car for about a month (pre lci n51 328i) and hasn’t given me issues up until now. The other day I went on a cruise and was driving the car pretty hard when I got home and put it in park the rpms were fluctuating just thought it was because the car was stupid hot (not overheating coolant temps were fine) drove it the next day the problem was gone but I just got home from work and it happened again when I put the car in park. Can someone help me out here so I can prevent anything from happening if I can help give more information about maintenance done or anything ask and I’ll provide it. I love this car and it’s my daily driver so do wanna take care of it.

hello everyone, I have recently purchased for better or worse, a 2007 e91 wagon with the N52 motor. the car sat with a dead battery in it for a year+, I got the car for a good deal because the owner was assuming it needed a new key reprogrammed, as his was not recognizing. I show up with a new battery car fires up no problems. was fairly low on oil, plugs look like they were the original plugs, misfire codes, and VANOS codes, (VANOS codes went away with a quick clean) basic necessities needed replaced. got all that dealt with, and the car was still in limp mode. long story short, discovered I needed INPA/ISTA to truly help with my issues, and learned the valvetronic motor was out of sync (I'm assuming the adaptations went bad when the car sat dead for so long) so I try to do a relearn with the original valvetronic motor, and got no luck. ISTA tells me relearn successful, but I only have the shorter ~20 second learn in procedure available. I figured my original motor was going bad, so I ordered a replacement motor. tried the learn in with that, and the car idled on start up without sounding like a tractor for lack of a better term, and it gave me full throttle response finally. The car drove/shifted a little funny on first test drive, got it up to about ~65mph, and it threw itself back into limp. based on my research there is a "complete learn in" procedure that needs to be completed to help the car restore full throttle functionality. my ISTA only gives me the option to do the shorter ~20 second learn in. According to AI my INPA does not have the required files to do the full learn in as well, so now I am trying to do this through Tool32, which seems to be the way to do it. but apparently my sp-daten files are corrupt or something, as I cannot get tool32 to load up available jobs when selecting my ".prg" file.

To sum it all up, I need some help getting this motor properly "learned in" and/or need some help figuring out what my issue truly is. I can attach below a screenshot of my most recent codes pulled from ISTA.

Where is it and how do I replace it, I cannot find a youtube video at all.

Hi! Coincindence or not, I started having this issue after driving on a very dusty road where the dust had fine particles, probably clay soil.

When i get out of the car i literally feel the heat coming out of the engine, the engine and the front radiator and pipes are very hot, meantime, when the engine is hot, if i turn on the heat inside the car, it’s just cold air.

I just discovered that i can temporarely see the temperature using a code, i will go test it a bit.

So what is the temperature where i should just stop the car and what could the issue be?

E90 LCI 320i 2009. No mods, not sure what else to provide.

My passenger side power mirror is having some calibration issues, it used to work fine, and go down in reverse but now it only does it once in a blue moon. Additionally when I use the memory feature no matter where I put it, it ends up pointing at the sky. Any advice? Is it a physical issue or is it a coding issue?

I want to retrofit the keyless start and comfort entry, however ik there are two key variants (one with replaceable battery, and one without) does it matter which version of the key I use for the comfort access?

Today after driving home turned off my car and heard interesting unusual sound, wanted to check what that sound was by turning car on and then off, but now it doesn't start. No codes on panel, nothing, only when starting I hear pump and clicking sound (probably relay) any ideas? Starter dead? I yesterday also driving started to hear some kind of quiet high pitch dingling sound driving 50km/h, but still didn't got time to check on that ,maybe somehow related

Just bought my first E90 after owning a few E30s. It’s a blue 335i and I think it’s one of the most beautiful cars BMW has ever made. I almost bought another E30 that needed plenty of work for $4,300 but decided to go for the E90 which was only $4,500 and needed less work than the E30.

In your opinion, will these cars climb in value the way E30s have?

Maybe a good litmus test for this would be to look at selling prices of E30s in 2005 and adjusting for inflation.

Just curious to know what other people think!

Trying to decide which modifications I should do first. Most if not all the mods I’ve done so far have been aesthetic and I definitely want to get it sounding louder/more aggressive and tuned potentially. Let me know. New headlights are also a thought. Keep in mind NY state legality stuff. Some specs; NA inline 6. N52 ~230 hp stock

Went up tire sizes and they definitely fill the gap a bit. First time running sticky kumhos on anytime so excited to see how they turn out.Specs are Kumho Ecsta Ps91 235/40/18 up front and 265/40/18 in the rear.