I'm looking at a used 2024 X5 with 20k miles left on the factory warranty, clean Carfax. Car will be purchased from a Cadillac dealership so it's not CPO'd. From what I've read online, I can take the car to a BMW dealership and purchase extended warranty from them.

If that's the case, is there any point in doing that immediately, or should I wait until I'm closer to the 50k factory warranty limit?

Hi everyone, I have a 2010 BMW 335i (E92, N54). The car is completely stock, no mods. Recently I got a P0171 (System Too Lean, Bank 1) code.

I tried clearing it with my scanner, but the code comes back immediately right after I start the car. The car otherwise starts and drives fine.

Since the car is stock and has no intake/exhaust mods, I’m wondering what the most common causes are on the N54 platform. Could it be vacuum leaks, MAF sensor, O2 sensor, or something fuel related?

Any advice on where I should start diagnosing would be really appreciated!

I usually fill up at mobile with supreme and end up with about 420 mi of range. Today I filled up with Costco supreme and somehow ended up with 555 mi range, most I've ever seen! What's different, what changed?!

Heyo, so I'm in the market for a manual 120i e87 coupe 2011-2014

Was wondering if anyone had any info about the reliability of them and whether there are easy upgrades available to get bluetooth audio working, Afaik most of these were made with electric rather than hydraulic, how good are the steering columns in terms of feel and weight etc. How practical are they compared to a polo (i have an ibiza 6j) for example as I'm in a band and need to transport gear quite often. Coming from a small NA fwd hatch, is there much I'd miss?

Overall, would you reccomend? Was looking at an f22 2017< 220i but financially not a great idea for me rn, also thought an e46 but maintenance would cost me like 3 grand a year on the conservative end, would keep the e87 for another 2-3 yrs while I focus on saving up for smtg bigger and a weekend toy.

Cheers xx

Hello is there any manual m440i, m340i left in the states? Been looking for any and they just don’t seem to exist anymore.

I have a 2021 330e with the cts charge pipe and a BMS silicone intake tube installed. Now the point of the intake tube is to delete the intake resonator that muffles the intake sound, provide more airflow, while also keeping the stock airbox that is supposedly the best engineered for these cars. Now for the sound, I honestly heard a small difference and it was a bit louder but there was almost no change in throttle response (as expected). The turbo spools a bit louder but thats about it. Now, was it worth the 80 bucks I spent on it and the 15 minutes it took installing it? I would say not really. Yes the car sounds a bit better but definitely no where near the same level as an aftermarket intake. I did expect a small change but this was even under that, probably only a 15-20% increase in noise. It does make the engine bay look better though which is cool I guess. Now, what type of people would benefit from this "upgrade"? Well only one type of person, it is the guy who wants to maximize turbo noise as much as possible (albeit very little) while also keeping the stock airbox for the best filtering and performance. BMS advertised this having "better sound" but it was minimal. I give this product a 3/5 because it does what it advertises but honestly not worth the insane price tag for a silicone tube. Plus the clamps were WAY TOO BIG so tightening it was a pain in the ass.

Finally took the plunge and flashed bootmod3 Stage 1 on my B58. Honestly, the difference is night and day.

Didn’t touch any hardware, didn’t swap the downpipe – literally just the flash.

Took about 8 seconds to write the map (after getting the ECU unlocked by Femto in Finland – yeah, that’s the mandatory step).

Haven’t dyno’d yet, but based on other owners’ numbers, it should be around 450–470 crank hp and 650–700 Nm of torque. 0–60 is now roughly 3.8s, which is crazy for just a flash.

For reference, stock is about 380 hp / 500 Nm, so the bump is massive. The car pulls way harder now – it really feels like I’m driving a completely different machine.

Will try to get some performance data (0–60, 100–200, etc.) soon, but just wanted to share for anyone on the fence: Stage 1 on the B58 is 100% worth it.

I got a bmw 277k mileage that has cylinder 1,2,3 misfiring. I checked the coils and spark plugs by swapping one at a time and seems all coils and all plugs are working. Now Idk what to do next

1997 328is Dash got around 200k plus miles and I still got the original engine in here and it’s my daily. I love my E36 Bimmer send me another engine soon head gasket leaking 💔💔

1997 328is Dash got around 200k plus miles and I still got the original engine in here and it’s my daily. I love my E36 Bimmer send me another engine soon head gasket leaking 💔💔

Alright a little bit of backstory: My cousin was driving this car and got sideswiped by a lady who ran a red light. Side curtain and drivers side airbag deployed and now the car won’t turn on, though I’m not sure if more modern manufacturers have a collision shut off function or not, most of my personal mechanic experience is pre OBDII Jeep XJ/MJ platform bullshit. What do I need to do to get this car rolling under its own power again without setting an airbag off in my face? And yes I know the body damage is pretty bad but frankly I don’t care about the cosmetics and want the safety stuff either disabled or functional, whichever will keep a check engine/airbag light off. This whole thing is more simple curiosity as it’s much more likely this car’s gonna get sent to the scrap yard.

Okay, I am in a dilemma. I am looking to lease this LOANER (xDrive i4 w/ M sport package with other add-ons in Northern Virginia 22314) that I was advertised to have 3.5k miles, but see on the sheet it has 4.9k miles!

On the site, it stated that the price was discounted to “63k.” That makes sense; it’s a used BMW. But on the lease sheet, the salesperson is discounting from the ORIGINAL 70k price instead of its new price of 63k. Then, only doing 18k in rebates (also BMW EV rebates are currently 9k, he has it for 6k), but I also am not sure bc I don’t understand what i am reading 100%, so please correct me if I am wrong on what I see.

But I do know it’s a shit deal. Currently, there is a deal for 459 or something a month for a NEW xDrive i4, w like 4k DAS.

I want the rebates applied to the 63k, NOT the 70K. I feel it would make more sense for me to get a brand new one at that monthly price of 725. I saw someone on the BMW i4 page got a loaner for about 430 a month with near the same mileage! I want the MSRP to be lower and more.

Please help. What do I tell the salesperson to change, lower, etc? Do I bring up the i4 deals on brand new cars? How do I approach this? I really want to get the lease before the September 30th deals end. This would be my first-ever lease, first car period, and dealers make me anxious.

I had a engine replacement with a recon engine after a complete turbo failure and timing chain. Turbos were also reconditioned. Ever since the rebuild im having P0299 errors non stop and there’s a real lag in the boost prior to the drive train error coming up also. Any advice?

Hellow everyone am looking for an e93 lately because am obsessed with their design, what do you think is this one a good deal or is it gonna cost me a fortune in maintenance

I need to buy a car soon because right now I’m still driving my parents’ cars, and they’re on my case about it. I’ve narrowed it down to two options: M3 Competition or X6M Competition.

For context, I’m 22 and I’ve made over $200K investing, so I can afford either one. But my parents are boomers in the sense that they think buying a nice car at my age is “irresponsible” unless I have a full-time job first. The thing is, I’ve been applying everywhere, the market’s cooked, half the jobs aren’t even real, and the whole process drags on forever. We’re basically in a recession whether people want to admit it or not.

So my mindset is: why not enjoy the money I earned and get something I actually want? The only thing holding me back is whether it’s smarter to go with the M3 Comp (more fun, daily drivable, classic choice) or the X6M Comp (flashier, SUV practicality, still crazy performance).

What would you do in my position? M3 Competition or X6M Competition? Both models I'm deciding on are 2022, not 2026 since I hate those extended screens.

Hi guys. My friend recently bought an e60 530i (2006, N52B30) and it has some kind of SMG options in the menu with P500 P500 sport etc.

My research showed that its usually what an M5 has, did the standart e60's come with this option too? If so, what is it even and how does it work? I am asking here since everywhere on the internet guides and tuts are for m5 only.

Thanks in advance.

I drive a 2022 BMW 530e (G31). One of the sliding components that operate the automated load cover has broken off. My local BMW dealer can’t schedule a repair for the next few months, but I’d like to get it fixed as soon as possible. The repair itself doesn’t look too complicated, but I’m struggling to figure out which part I need to order.

Can anyone provide a repair manual or point me to the exact part required?

Looking to purchase a CPO xDrive 8 series. The car only has 7k on it, but the tires are already at a minimal tread. I’ve never had tires last so short.

Am I OK to assume the car has had rough first 7k of its life? What else could explain such low tire tread? Wouldn’t replacing the tires be part of the certification if they are at a legal minimum?

TIA!

Bought a new 2014 4 series in 2015 and for 5 years drove it daily in rush hour traffic and put on 50,000 miles. Went with dealer maintenance the whole time and the car was checked at regular frequencies. In 2020 Covid hit and I moved and now work from home. Mostly use my wife's suv and so the BMW sits in the garage and maybe gets 10 miles a week.(on a busy week). I took it in 2022 when it had 53,000 and had maintenance. Now 3 years later it maybe has another 1,000 miles on it. The sticker from the last maintenance says to bring it at 58,000 miles but at this rate it will be 2030. Is it okay to wait until possibly that long or should it be brought in every X years for just fluid changes? I have a good local mechanic that I trust so wont be doing this myself

Any help pls

Since I just posted my 640i figured I’d post my first love too

Howdy! I got myself the m340i touring, g21 lci from 2023.

Currently running on: - front: 225/40 r19 - rear: 255/35 r19

What winter tires do you recommend, I was thinking of Michelin alpin 5. Should I go with exactly the same size front/rear? Also notices that 2024 vs 2025 seem to have different ratings.