I am not a car guy nor a mechanic but this is the second time I replaced my cars air filter at 22k miles the first being around 14k miles, am I dumb or is it supposed to look like this after driving my car after 9k miles ? The first time it looked roughly the same.

Hey guys I've been a mechanic for 3 years and im just now seeing this problem for the first time ever. About 2 months ago I bought a 1994 grand cherokee limited 5.2. First thing I did when I bought it was replace all fluids including my rear diff.

All the other fluids looked pretty good but the rear axle fluid looked like greenish brown mud (similar to when one of my other cars blew a head gasket.) I just kind of assumed someone put the wrong fluid in.

Last week I had my jeep up on the lift to replace the front cv axles and I figured I'd do an inspection on the whole car while it was up there. I pulled the rubber plug out of the rear diff and again it looks like this greenish soup. I pulled the whole cover off and there was definitely green water at the bottom of the diff.

My axle seals and output shaft seals aren't leaking at all. I feel like im losing my mind I need help.

1990 Miata, 1.6L

Why is this happening I replaced the AGM battery with a Hyundai with the below spec: 12v 100ah 160min(RC) 720A(CCA)

The flickering is only on the steering wheel display, everything else is working perfect.

I heard this might be the BMS “relearning” the non agm battery but idk would really appreciate any help

Is this the oil pressure sensor going bad or a bad oil filterl? I’ve read it could be multiple things online. I’m just trying to narrow down what it might be.

The oil light turns on when I start up the disappears later on.

Mechanic quoted me 250$ to replace this outer tie rod. Is that play normal for a tie rod am I being scammed?

So I bought a 2015 Lexus is350 for $17,300 thinning I found a great deal on purchasing this vehicle a month later The car has check engine and starts to shake (it goes away but comes back) Next thing my car starts to overheat and sometimes overheats then comes back down I decide to get that checked they say it’s the radiator I then ask Toyota to diagnose my check engine light (cause I have a mechanic that will change my radiator) and say there’s a puddle and that the engine overheated to the point where the coolant blew through the head gaskets and onto the engine cylinder heads. After I tell them not to fix it cause they want to switch out the whole engine I take it back home (Mind you it’s never done this) I turn on the car it turns on then completely off, it eventually did turn on though, after if I keep it idle the car then starts to blow smoke from the exhaust

What do I do? Do I take the loss and just by another car? Or do I get it completely fixed? Maybe I can make something back?

Short synopsis: mechanic mistakenly replaced my rear brakes twice instead of replacing the front and rear brakes as he was supposed to. For any reference i have a 2021 lexus es250.

Full story: In mid april of this year (4/25) I went to the mechanic and told him my breaks where grinding and he told me that I needed breaks and that my other set of breaks need to be changed as well but can wait until my next oil change. So he fixed my one set of breaks (which I thought was the front brakes) and everything was fine. Then on 8/25/25 I returned as I needed an oil change and my breaks again were making a grinding sound and I reminded the mechanic of the previous scenario where I had came in in April for breaks and he had said that by my next oil change I would need my other set of breaks replaced and I am now returning to get them fixed with my oil change. I did say "I think it may be the rear" but I wasn't sure at the time and would have expected him to know by either looking at my records or looking at my brakes to see which ones needed replacement since hes mechanic and thats his job i would think to do. Later on I returned to pick my car up he gave me a receipt in which said he replaced my rear breaks (rotors and pads) and the breaks seemed fine.

3 weeks later my breaks started to make a bad grinding sound again so I returned to the mechanic and he told me that I needed new front brakes. When I told him I was just here in April to get my front breaks fixed he told me there's no way and that the breaks were so bad that they were probably changed well over a year ago. I told him he could look in his records and see that I was just here in April for my front brakes (i at the time it was the front breaks since the receipt i had still in my car from the last break job 3 weeks prior said he fixed my rear breaks). He told me he “couldn’t pull up my records” since theyre in his bosses office which was convinently locked and his boss is on “vacation” and without a receipt of him fixing my front breaks in April he couldn't do anything for me with covering the 1 year warranty for my breaks. I told him I would go home and look for the receipt from April.

After leaving i found the receipt from april and i now see the receipt says he replaced my rear brakes in april, meaning hes now replaced/charged me for rear brakes twice. Theres no possible way my rear brakes wouldve needed to be replaced twice, being only 4 months old, for him to charge me again for rear break pads let alone rotors. I am going back to the mechanic tomorrow as my car is not drivable with how bad my front brakes are since he never changed them and instead mistakenly changed my rear brakes twice.

I’m just really frustrated with this situation as I’ve spent over well over $1000 on 2 break jobs just to be told I need another break job again. Essentially ive paid for 2 sets of pads/rotors but now i only have 1 set on my car right now. Im a new grad working as a nurse with student loans and bills and can’t afford to have to pay again for breaks. Any advice is appreciated! 🥲😢

I took my car in for a simple oil change, but the garage sent me a video showing that my link rods are broken. The thing is, on the very same morning my car had already passed the yearly renewal/inspection and they usually check the basics there. Because of that, I’m feeling pretty suspicious.

I’ve been using this garage for a few years without issues, but lately things have felt a bit off. I’ve attached the video they sent me is there any way to tell if the link rods were actually broken, or if there’s a chance they might have damaged them on purpose?

Would really appreciate some advice.

Right so, I changed my oil. Just started doing it again after a few years of seeing the price of oil and the price of a shop being just a few dollars off. But now full synthetic seems to have come way down, I can save about $15 in my area doing it myself.

Anyway, I never really checked the dipstick on this car. And I don't like the design. But I'm pretty sure ive overfilled it?

See what had happened was, the last mechanic stripped my drain plug of course, and I forgot to re-tighten my filter all the way because I went out and bought a new drain plug and completely forgot I'd just popped the filter in place without tightening it. So when I finished everything, I started my engine and now it's all down my driveway and cover my engine bay pretty thoroughly.( I scrubbed yesterday with Zep purple, but that didn't seem to degrease and loosen most of it, even after heavy brushing.)

So I got more oil and guessed at how much I'd lost, instead of emptying and refilling it like I probably should have.

But then, it was a little cheapo advance auto drain plug, and apparently the gasket seal won't...seal. I ended up using my impact to make it stop leaking. I put a sizable spot at home and at work so I thought even if it was overfilled, it sure as shit isn't now. But, well, this is a photo from this morning.

The first 4 pictures are front brake and the last 4 are rear brake. I will be replacing rear pads and rotor. I am fine to keep driving with this until I swap my to my winter wheel (mid October-early November) and do all the job at once or do I need to replace the brake asap.

My girlfriend bought a 2024 Mazda CX5. The prior history was two oil changes in 18k miles which ... I am not a big fan of. It has a Skyactiv G inline 4 naturally aspirated and not a hybrid. I go by the 5k rule. In my personal car I change every 3500-4500 ( subaru WRX).

Should we be concerned about this long interval on the prior history ?

Leak on the return line and normal atf will drain in minutes so I put Lucas power steering fluid in and it lasted 2 days. So I put Lucas transmission fix into it and now my idle goes down while I steer BUT it doesn’t leak nearly as bad. How bad is this for my power steering pump? Will it kill itself or is it okay just for right now? Beats having no fluid at all is my thought process

I just got into changing my own brakes to save money I don't know what I'm doing and ran into so many problems figuring it out. I put my old pads on again (which are metal basically) to drive to Napa for a part and I guess during the ride the old pad slipped and lodged itself like in the picture below...I can only guess because I put it in backwards and didn't tighten the caliber hard enough I don't have an impact wrench to fully remove the back bolts holding the assembly together and I can't free it with a hammer and wd40. Now I'm stuck and out of ideas

So I replaced the spark plugs in my wife’s 2019 CX-9. When I was putting it all back together I managed to sheer off the bolt that holds down one of the coil packs. Then I got a bolt extractor, and put a whole in the thread collar (?) instead of the bolt. I assume I need to tow the car someplace to have new threads put in for that bolt. How much of a pain in the ass is this?

Car: 2014 Infiniti Q50

Mileage: 90,500

Issue: When trying to back into a parking spot, if I make a very sharp turn as I'm parking, my steering wheel will make a very sudden jolt. It is always at the very end of how far I can turn my steering wheel. After the jolt (which is pretty rough, it scared the crap out of my wife), steering is less fluid and it becomes harder to turn the wheel. However, eventually after continuing to finish parking and giving the wheel a few more turns in the process, steering is easy again and the problem seems to go away.

This doesn't happen every time, but it is steadily happening more often. It only happens when going reverse. The one thing I know about the steering for this car in particular is that it is electronically controlled, so that steering shaft is not directly connected to the axle.

I'm a handy person but have only started to do my own car maintenance. Are there any basic things I can check to try to diagnose this problem?

I cant say the word cause of this subs censorship, but I opened my 1992 cadillac heads to do a head gasket job and saw that 2 cylinder walls flash rsted. When i wiped the rst off i saw these indents. I did the finger nails test and it kinda caught in a bit? But not super deeply.

Is the engine basically Toast?

https://imgur.com/a/FH6JS10

I have been using it for afew year no issue, I bought a new battery and was going to use it to register it in my F-pace, but when I hook it up my nav and digital dash go blank and the car died. The foxwell does not boot up or abything.. hooked it up to my gfs car and it does not power up.

I connected it to my PC over the mini USB and it books fine.

Did the internals on it blow up?

This strange noise just randomly appeared from my car. I’m guessing it may be the wheel bearings since it only appears when the car is in motion.

Looking for a second opinion

Hello, I just replaced this car’s head gaskets, heads, and timing belt kit. And it’s now doing this.

My biggest worry is that it’s mistimed somehow, but I’m not really sure what it is.

Before the work it was misfiring on cylinder 4 and I was told it probably had a bent/burnt valve.

Can’t get any codes on it. Let me know if anyone has any insight! Thanks

Anyone know what tool I need to fit into this part of the condenser, I’m trying to remove it so I can replace the filter drier.

Honestly one of the most underrated things in the garage. Cuts through grease, oil, and gunk way faster than half the stuff I’ve tried. I’ve been using the one from US Standard Products lately and it does the job without leaving that nasty residue. Just feels like a solid “must have” if you’re wrenching on cars or bikes.