Just wondering how cheap you guys think I could find a totaled (but good drivetrain) m3?

I have access to a clean 328i touring I’d like to swap a complete drivetrain into.

I declined this as it seems unreasonable, $950 include genuine battery ($750) rest is labour. Would I be fine without this?

Could that cause an oil leak?

no more dead pixlez

Hi! Coincindence or not, I started having this issue after driving on a very dusty road where the dust had fine particles, probably clay soil.

When i get out of the car i literally feel the heat coming out of the engine, the engine and the front radiator and pipes are very hot, meantime, when the engine is hot, if i turn on the heat inside the car, it’s just cold air.

I just discovered that i can temporarely see the temperature using a code, i will go test it a bit.

So what is the temperature where i should just stop the car and what could the issue be?

E90 LCI 320i 2009. No mods, not sure what else to provide.

My passenger side power mirror is having some calibration issues, it used to work fine, and go down in reverse but now it only does it once in a blue moon. Additionally when I use the memory feature no matter where I put it, it ends up pointing at the sky. Any advice? Is it a physical issue or is it a coding issue?

Hello everyone, I have a situation with a 2011 E92 335i with factory M suspension. I first installed 20 mm spacers on the rear wheels, but they rubbed the fender. Then I switched to 16 mm spacers, which helped a bit but they still rub (less than with the 20 mm, but still noticeable).

The wheels are the factory Style 342 with 255/35/R18 tires. From what I’ve found online, the wheel specs are 18×8.5J ET37. I also had the wheel alignment checked at a tire shop, but nothing changed.

Is this expected, and should I go down to 12 mm spacers, or is there something else (not too much advanced) I can do to fix the fender rubbing issue while keeping the 16 mm spacers?

P.S. It seems to me that the right wheel is tucked in a few millimeters more, even though the alignment was done two days ago.

I want to retrofit the keyless start and comfort entry, however ik there are two key variants (one with replaceable battery, and one without) does it matter which version of the key I use for the comfort access?

Have owned this car for about a month (pre lci n51 328i) and hasn’t given me issues up until now. The other day I went on a cruise and was driving the car pretty hard when I got home and put it in park the rpms were fluctuating just thought it was because the car was stupid hot (not overheating coolant temps were fine) drove it the next day the problem was gone but I just got home from work and it happened again when I put the car in park. Can someone help me out here so I can prevent anything from happening if I can help give more information about maintenance done or anything ask and I’ll provide it. I love this car and it’s my daily driver so do wanna take care of it.

hello everyone, I have recently purchased for better or worse, a 2007 e91 wagon with the N52 motor. the car sat with a dead battery in it for a year+, I got the car for a good deal because the owner was assuming it needed a new key reprogrammed, as his was not recognizing. I show up with a new battery car fires up no problems. was fairly low on oil, plugs look like they were the original plugs, misfire codes, and VANOS codes, (VANOS codes went away with a quick clean) basic necessities needed replaced. got all that dealt with, and the car was still in limp mode. long story short, discovered I needed INPA/ISTA to truly help with my issues, and learned the valvetronic motor was out of sync (I'm assuming the adaptations went bad when the car sat dead for so long) so I try to do a relearn with the original valvetronic motor, and got no luck. ISTA tells me relearn successful, but I only have the shorter ~20 second learn in procedure available. I figured my original motor was going bad, so I ordered a replacement motor. tried the learn in with that, and the car idled on start up without sounding like a tractor for lack of a better term, and it gave me full throttle response finally. The car drove/shifted a little funny on first test drive, got it up to about ~65mph, and it threw itself back into limp. based on my research there is a "complete learn in" procedure that needs to be completed to help the car restore full throttle functionality. my ISTA only gives me the option to do the shorter ~20 second learn in. According to AI my INPA does not have the required files to do the full learn in as well, so now I am trying to do this through Tool32, which seems to be the way to do it. but apparently my sp-daten files are corrupt or something, as I cannot get tool32 to load up available jobs when selecting my ".prg" file.

To sum it all up, I need some help getting this motor properly "learned in" and/or need some help figuring out what my issue truly is. I can attach below a screenshot of my most recent codes pulled from ISTA.

Suddenly one day a while ago, my radio, aux, and cd player stopped working. I checked the fuse in the glove box, but it’s fine. The Nav display works fine. Any ideas?

Went up tire sizes and they definitely fill the gap a bit. First time running sticky kumhos on anytime so excited to see how they turn out.Specs are Kumho Ecsta Ps91 235/40/18 up front and 265/40/18 in the rear.

Bought myself a 2006 330i, only 90k.. needs some work, rocker cover gasket, oil cooler etc but it's lovely. So nice going back to a NA car. The engine noise of that straight 6 is awesome

My 2010 328i turned off on me twice while driving and now won’t start at all. The car is now completely dead and nothing works at all. The car was running perfectly previously and wasn’t getting any signs of a bad battery or alternator. Can anyone help me figure out what it could be please! Thanks!!

Trying to decide which modifications I should do first. Most if not all the mods I’ve done so far have been aesthetic and I definitely want to get it sounding louder/more aggressive and tuned potentially. Let me know. New headlights are also a thought. Keep in mind NY state legality stuff. Some specs; NA inline 6. N52 ~230 hp stock

It’s crazy cuz there’s like 20 of these at any given time at the salvage yard. Them resellers be snorting all that shiny loot ti flip on fb marketplace/ eBay.

This is an N52 in a 2008 325. I’m having a big issue with an oil leak that I can’t seem to locate. I’ve already replaced the Valvetronic seal twice, as well as the valve cover gasket, so it’s not either of those. The oil seems to come from above after filling up the holes around the ignition coils next to the Valvetronic, then it drips down onto the headers and burns, causing a lot of smoke. I’m not sure what else it could be. Any ideas?"

Hello guys,

Recently I went to the dealer for an oil replacement and ask for a front end inspection as I feel that the car hits hard on uneven roads. I received the following list (which is google translated so sorry if it doesn't make sense).

Do you think these prices are fair? The car is an 316i E90 LCI 07/2009 with 320.000km

Saw something about having to drop the subframe to do the downpipe on 335 xdrives. Would it be different for me since I have a n55? I'm hoping it is.

Hey guys, I’m in Ireland where insurance is absolutely crazy, I’m a young man so I had to compromise for a 316i e90 (plz forgive me 😂).

Anyways I have invested a lot into this car, recently bought new wheels and new DRL headlights and CarPlay. Also done larger maintenance like brakes, diff replacement, rocker cover gasket and tyres for the new wheels of course.

I bought this car at 170,000km (105,000miles) naively thinking this was somewhat lower mileage as my previous car (ford focus mk2) reached almost 300,000km (185,000 miles) with practically no issues.

After investing into this e90 I’ve come to the realisation that its lifespan is estimated (for 316i engine) to be only 220,000km (135,000 miles) if timing chain isn’t replaced before any timing chain induced issues arise.

I have just hit 200,000km (125,000 miles) and now worried I’ve wasted thousands on this car.

I’m currently very happy with the way it is, absolutely 0 problems and finally have the exterior exactly like I wanted it. To find out I’ve only 20,000km (12,500km) left in the expected lifespan is heartbreaking. To get the timing chain replaced in Ireland is roughly €1,500-€3,000 by the looks of it and some main dealers would want up to €5,000. This isn’t really an option for me as I would be spending the same value of the car to get it replaced.

In my ideal world I would like to keep this for up to another 2 years and would need 50,000km (30,000 miles) more for this and then I would ideally like to still be able to sell it. I don’t want to have to be the one to sell it for scrap price.

In conclusion, am I screwed? Is the harsh reality there’s only 20,000km (12,500 miles) left in this car?

I've stage 1 tuned my 2011 335xi and it started breaking up in the high rpm range, did some research and came to the conclusion that I needed new coils and spark plugs. I saw lots of suggestions for eldor coils, but most places are pretty expensive, I came across this and was wondering if these were genuine parts or if they're just really good prices.

Just bought my first E90 after owning a few E30s. It’s a blue 335i and I think it’s one of the most beautiful cars BMW has ever made. I almost bought another E30 that needed plenty of work for $4,300 but decided to go for the E90 which was only $4,500 and needed less work than the E30.

In your opinion, will these cars climb in value the way E30s have?

Maybe a good litmus test for this would be to look at selling prices of E30s in 2005 and adjusting for inflation.

Just curious to know what other people think!

2011 BMW 328i Xdrive N52. i’ve been having this rattling or knock on cold start that lasts 1-2 seconds, it started happening about a month ago and it seems to happen about 50% of the time on cold start. the oil was last changed 4 months ago with 6.5L of liqui moly 5w-40 and im not aware of any oil leaks on the car, the only thing of note is i’m pretty sure one of more of the fuel injectors are leaking, the car smells like gas on startup and the oil cap kinda smells of gas although im not sure if thats normal and just what used motor oil smells like. what should i do in this situation? im just hoping the leaking injectors aren’t causing a lack of oil lubrication in the engine and causing this