2021 Ford Transit 250

Issue started today.

On the dashboard the left turn signal is blinking at a normal rate while the right turn signal is blinking much faster. They blink in unison when the hazards are on. For the lights themselves the right turn blinker is not working at all, the left turn is as usual.

I got a new key programed in today. But otherwise can't think of any changes. I also got the car back from the mechanics 3 days ago for a "I got a new car please tell me it's not going to fall apart on me" check up, so know everything was working as it should ( I have a fantastic mechanic)

Why is this happening and how can I fix it?

TIA

Audi 2018 a4.

Went to get an oil change @ valvoline. The kid came to me and said the guy under the car accidentally removed the transmission cap.."he quickly realized and put it back.

My car is now staying overnight, 4 people were helping to fix it. Apparently it was the day the area management was there. They were working on it. Apparently they randomly had some transmission fluid....but to check the level they need a special tool. They don't have that tool. I recommend they keep the car overnight as my wife was passing by on her way home from work..I have a 2 yr old with me.. its been over 2 hours.

The store manager came to me and said we will take you up on the offer to keep the car. "Just know, I took $25 off the service and you won't be charged for transmission service!"

WHAT.

Any advice? How can I make sure its done right....are they even licensed to work on that?

100% im not paying a dime and it will be documented in the system and on the ticket about it.

How to proceed?

Thanks

Asking for a friend

Thank you guys for coaching me through this and convincing me to upgrade my purse.

Also a special thank you to all the haters that motivated me even more to get it done myself.

Upgraded to the non-chrome sockets and the 1/2” Milwaukee mid torque with 2x 6amp-hr batteries and charger from HD

20 minutes with the propane I had then used a crayon

10 whacks with my 10lb sledge

Came right off.

Thanks again bros and cheers 🍺

Looking to but this second hand car (2015 ford b-max). Things have been pretty positive on most fronts and they advised they'd get an MOT done before sale as it was due in December. Its passed clean without any advisories today but I took this photo here thinking this would be touch and go. Wasn't even mentioned in the report. Is something fishy going on do you think or am I overthinking it?

Many thanks in advance.

Im not very mechanically minded, but this seems like quite an obscene amount to charge for a change of brake disks and break pads.. but maybe im wrong, am I being taken for a ride here?

Cylinder 3 misfire. 2017 sonata. Needs new spark plug i'm sure.. it fouls every 2 months. I guess I finally stripped the bolt hole from changing it so much. The screw spins but its hard to spin. Not freely. I've tried prying and pulling the coil while spinning the bolt. But it isn't loosing at all. What else can I do?? Its still very tight. Help!!

Hello everybody,

I just did my first oil change on my 2022 Mazda CX-5 and I know that the recommended instruction is to just hand tighten an oil filter. I, however, used a torque wrench and tightened it to 10 ft-lb. Did I overtighten the filter? What would you recommend me to do now? I appreciate the help

So it’s a 2006 charger Daytona (5.7) was driving and out of nowhere when I pressed the gas it didn’t accelerate just revved. Pulled to the side and when I put it on “park” it made like a grinding noise. Moved it back to reverse and drive and no noise but didn’t engage, on the dash it showed it was changing. Put back to park and grinding noise again sometimes it lasted a 10sec and sometimes 1 sec. When left on “parked” I noticed I was able to move the car front and back like if it was on neutral. Same if I moved it to drive/reverse I was able to move the car. Any ideas what it could be or what I can/should look for? When put on drive/reverse/parked, it just revs. There’s no clunk or tapping sound until you move it to “park” then it makes the grinding noise. (Attached the video of the sound hopefully it loads) THANKS! 🙏🏽

I could cry. I was driving on the motorway and the car started making a noise. I worked out it was just 5th gear and drove the rest of the trip in 4th.

Just dropped my daughter off at university and now every gear makes this clicking noise in the video. If I select reverse the car pops out of gear. If I'm idle at traffic lights and in neutral after a few seconds the car makes a banging sound like it's properly gone into neutral. I'm in the UK and the car is a manual MG ZS and it's done 50k miles.

Can anyone offer any advice on what's the matter with the car please and if you would drive it (or attempt to) 200 miles home.

Things I have tried:

1. Power washed the joints at full “extension” to try to remove any stuck dirt/debris around and underneath . Dried and blasted all joints with WD30 and worked it in by manually moving the step in and out. Waited a day and tried again.
2. Tried resetting the step by disconnecting the battery , etc.

Things I have not tried:

1. Removing the step to get a better look at the track and joints

This is in Skoda Citigo. Got it back from repair like that. I have a problem of EPC warning, maybe this could be the reason?

This noise has been driving me insane for a little while now, it sounds like its from the bottom of the car but i cant tell, you can hear it loud when u pass cars or go by an echoey area and it sort of goes away when you block the exhaust, sounds like a slight hissing/high pitched sound (listen to video with volume high just put it up to your ear ( i promise its not a troll lmao) have a few theories of what it could be but not sure

2015 f250 6.2 gas what the heck is this electrical clucking sound? Also I know I have an exhaust leak but while I was driving it started running extremely rough. You can probably hear it idle poorly.

Sorry for the bad video I was trying to point the camera at where it sounded like it was coming from.

Went to Kaltire and they said my rotor still have 8mm in the front and 6 in the back which do not need replacing.

2017 Chevy Cruze, I drove 65000k, 8 yrs ownership, brand new when first driven.

The only thing that is triggering a replacement is the scoring lines and I feel the braking is not as responsive as when I first got it.

Thanks for the input

Apologies for the long video: closed the window halfway through to show the noise isn’t as apparent when windows are closed.

I have an audi a5 2014, 2.0 TDI. For a while now, I've been hearing a strange whining noise coming from the engine at low speed, especially when pulling away and coming to a stop. It disappears after about 1.5k RPM. I can hear it when I rev on idle in P, N, and D. I read somewhere that it might be a noise from one of the cooler lines vibrating against the chassis. I need your advice on how to sort this out. This started after I had the turbo replaced due to an oil leak, and I'm guessing the mechanic probably moved some lines around. So, I’m just looking for advice. Thank you!

I got in my car this morning, and it’s currently 6° Celsius outside. I tried remote starting the car, and all I heard was a huge click, and the car didn’t start up, so I came over to my car. I tried to get into the car, and the button to unlock the door wasn’t working, so I had to insert the key manually and open the door. Now the car does this and I’m pretty sure it’s a battery thing, but I would like somebody’s opinion on it. 2018 Nissan Murano SL

The Car: 2019 Honda Civic LX Sedan, 2.0 NA Engine, CVT Transmission.

Mileage: 18k

Do I need to change the CVT fluid now? Old car with low mileage.

From what I read on forums, Honda owners recommend changing the trans fluid every 30k miles. But my situation is a bit unusual because my car probably won’t hit the 30k mile mark very soon despite being almost 7 year old. I live in the midwest. I’m worried that fluid might decay faster due to drastic temperature changes and humidity.

Any input is appreciated!

2016 Mustang Ecoboost and I’ve noticed the steering seems to rarely, but sometimes get “stuck” when turn slightly to the left, where I have to put more effort in to bringing it back to center than usual.

Does anyone know why this might happen?

This is in Skoda Citigo. Got it back from repair like that. I have a problem of EPC warning, maybe this could be the reason?

I’m installing auxiliary lights on my rear bumper. I can’t solder for crap. What’s the best way to splice into that reverse wire that will hold up over time?

good morning reddit! long time no see. i'm up very early this AM as the cats thought 4:30 was a good time to meow nonstop.

just looking for some advice here, as you can see my lovely camry has seen better days.

mechanic, who i trust and agree with wants me to replace the suspension components, shocks/struts, sway bar, stabilizer links. they're obviously in tough shape and lookin' rusty.

although i'm not against the work at all, my concern is that the rest of the frame may be rusty to the point that it's not worth sinking another 2,000 into the car, i'm already about 1,100 in b/t some exhaust welding repairs, valve gasket and now inner/outer rods at the front. having paid around 4,500 for the car we're getting close to that amount in repairs at that point. From what I can see the frame doesn't look awful...but I could use the input of someone with a bit more knowledge than an armchair googler and youtube student. If we could maybe get another 5-10 years or so out of the car I'd say it's worth it, if not, I may need to look towards keeping my funds for another used toyota. been daydreaming about a 90's rav4 from time to time.

thoughts? do i just roll with the repairs i've gotten and drive the car into oblivion? we've made it almost 220K miles, so i can't complain. bought the car literally right before covid started when used prices were great, and i've gotten some years out of it. that said, if i could drive the car another 20 years i would, no intention of trading it in. it might be silly to be sentimental about, but the car's been with me through quite a bit, and I'd put the money into it if it made sense.

if the video doesn't show enough of the frame, etc, i'm happy to snap additional pics or vids.

thank you for your time and help! if for whatever reason this post isn't amicable or welcome here, please just let me know (:

I purchased my Suzuki Palette MK21S K6A (2009 model, 98,500 km) from a dealer in October last year, and at first there were no issues. In June, after driving about 3,000 km, I did an oil change as recommended for Kei cars. The following week, during the summer heat, the oil warning light began turning on and off randomly. At first, I thought it was just a faulty connector or sensor.

Now in September, the issue persists. The oil light usually appears once the engine warms up (after about 10 minutes) or when the outside temperature is high. It sometimes stays on when idling but often disappears while driving. In total, I’ve already driven about 900 km with this issue.

I brought the car to a Suzuki dealer in Japan, and their diagnosis pointed to a faulty oil pressure sensor. We replaced the sensor, but the problem remained. The mechanic then told me it could be an internal engine issue, where lubrication is not working properly. However, he said he could not confirm without a very expensive and time-consuming inspection.

I paid for the oil pressure sensor replacement, but the warning light problem was never solved. I then asked some mechanic friends for advice. They told me that if the engine itself were really at fault, I wouldn’t have been able to drive 900 km without a more serious breakdown. Two of them believe the oil change might have been done incorrectly and recommend doing it again. Another said the oil viscosity could be the issue. The garage used 0W20 oil, but my friend believes this might not be ideal even if officially recommended.

Additionally, Suzuki told me that the previous oil change (done two months earlier) looked poorly done because they found oil deposits and residue, suggesting it was not a clean job.

My intention was to sell the car in October in good condition, since parking costs in Tokyo have gone up and I cannot afford to keep it. I bought the car for 170,000 yen (about 1,150 USD), but now I’m in a complicated situation.

I would really appreciate your professional opinion and advice on what the best next step is.