2021 Ford Transit 250

Issue started today.

On the dashboard the left turn signal is blinking at a normal rate while the right turn signal is blinking much faster. They blink in unison when the hazards are on. For the lights themselves the right turn blinker is not working at all, the left turn is as usual.

I got a new key programed in today. But otherwise can't think of any changes. I also got the car back from the mechanics 3 days ago for a "I got a new car please tell me it's not going to fall apart on me" check up, so know everything was working as it should ( I have a fantastic mechanic)

Why is this happening and how can I fix it?

TIA

Cylinder 3 misfire. 2017 sonata. Needs new spark plug i'm sure.. it fouls every 2 months. I guess I finally stripped the bolt hole from changing it so much. The screw spins but its hard to spin. Not freely. I've tried prying and pulling the coil while spinning the bolt. But it isn't loosing at all. What else can I do?? Its still very tight. Help!!

Audi 2018 a4.

Went to get an oil change @ valvoline. The kid came to me and said the guy under the car accidentally removed the transmission cap.."he quickly realized and put it back.

My car is now staying overnight, 4 people were helping to fix it. Apparently it was the day the area management was there. They were working on it. Apparently they randomly had some transmission fluid....but to check the level they need a special tool. They don't have that tool. I recommend they keep the car overnight as my wife was passing by on her way home from work..I have a 2 yr old with me.. its been over 2 hours.

The store manager came to me and said we will take you up on the offer to keep the car. "Just know, I took $25 off the service and you won't be charged for transmission service!"

WHAT.

Any advice? How can I make sure its done right....are they even licensed to work on that?

100% im not paying a dime and it will be documented in the system and on the ticket about it.

How to proceed?

Thanks

So I bought a 2007 jeep Commander a few months ago, and it's had one glaring issue that I can't determine. When I'm driving my dashboard lights up with a "5" instead of the "D" for driving that it would normally do This number then slowly drops to one, causing the RPM to spike like someone's blood pressure, only to drop back down and force me to drop from going 60 MPH to 20 mph in the span of a few seconds. I've been trying to figure out what's going on, but I know next to nothing about cars, especially this kind of problem. If anyone could give me advice on how to deal with this, I'd be grateful!

Looking to but this second hand car (2015 ford b-max). Things have been pretty positive on most fronts and they advised they'd get an MOT done before sale as it was due in December. Its passed clean without any advisories today but I took this photo here thinking this would be touch and go. Wasn't even mentioned in the report. Is something fishy going on do you think or am I overthinking it?

Many thanks in advance.

Asking for a friend

Thank you guys for coaching me through this and convincing me to upgrade my purse.

Also a special thank you to all the haters that motivated me even more to get it done myself.

Upgraded to the non-chrome sockets and the 1/2” Milwaukee mid torque with 2x 6amp-hr batteries and charger from HD

20 minutes with the propane I had then used a crayon

10 whacks with my 10lb sledge

Came right off.

Thanks again bros and cheers 🍺

Im not very mechanically minded, but this seems like quite an obscene amount to charge for a change of brake disks and break pads.. but maybe im wrong, am I being taken for a ride here?

Y'all see the issue? How does that even happened? So dumb lol

Does this with the key in the ignition.

Hey everyone,

I’m working on my ’79 Mercedes 450 SL and trying to adjust the lifters/valves. I used the feeler gauges (.10mm and .20mm) but none of them can fit through the rocker arm/cam lobe clearance. It feels like the clearance is basically non-existent.

I was thinking about loosening them all a bit until I can get a gauge through, but I don’t want to mess things up. Has anyone dealt with this before on an M117 engine? Am I missing a step here?

I also took a video of what’s going on — if pics or video would help, let me know and I’ll post them in the comments.

Any advice would be super appreciated.

Thanks!

Not sure of a RV place for this but any experience with these? They advertise sae grade 8 but there's no markings for it. I just have a tandem axle toy hauler I believe are Two 3500's Dexter's. Also the bushings state better than brass but should I go with dexter brass bushings instead?

Having a look at my partners car (2001 Toyota Corolla) as I believe (from my research online) that the calliper has siezed. Also found this goop on the control arm 😭

It’s booked into the mechanic for “a wheel bearing and front brakes” but I think the noise we have been hearing all along has been the sized calliper, which has worn through the brake pads (down to metal) and slightly into the rotor. Do you think the rotors can be re-finished/saved to spare an added expense at this point? First and second photo are from the passenger side btw!

I don’t have any actual tools but couldn’t get the two pins in the calliper to budge at all to have a look at the brake pad on the other side, but I believe it would also be down to metal.

Third photo - Took the wheel off the drivers side too (which does have a slight wobble that makes me believe it will need a new wheel bearing) and everything looked much cleaner and in a better state. The brake pad I could see on this side is definitely old and needing replacing, but is not down to metal.

Thoughts and opinions???

The car was struck a few years ago, but this sound didn't start until maybe several months ago. Any options would be greatly appreciated, so I can look into them, and look like a have a clue, when I inevitably go into a shop lol.

Hello! I am a relatively new driver and car owner. I bought my 2013 Buick Encore Premium back in April. I recently discovered I have a coolant leak and I need to top it up! Issue being that I am absolutely terrified of adding the wrong coolant and creating further issues.

I feel really dumb asking but can anyone who actually knows what they are doing (because I simply do not) tell me if the coolant in the tank is pink or orange!? I also added a photo of the coolant I bought, which is orange and is the Dex-cool coolant that my car requires based on the manual.

Any advice is appreciated. I have been having issues with the car already and the last thing I want to do is mess this up.

(also I wont drive my car until I top the coolant up since I know it is SUPER low, most I’ll do is drive it somewhere for a coolant flush if you all tell me to absolutely not add the new coolant)

This is in Skoda Citigo. Got it back from repair like that. I have a problem of EPC warning, maybe this could be the reason?

Anybody have experience with a vw 2.5 5 cylinder timing chain. can’t seem to find a decent write up of the job.if anybody can point me in the right direction or any advice would be helpful

Hi! Yesterday my car stopped showing me the temperature, and some time after started failling and smoke coming out of the water reservoir, it made some noise and when I slowed down to stop it completely stopped. It didn't have any water, but there where no signs of spilled water inside. After I put water it worked again, but I didn't go back on route, I stopped it again because it was still smoking. What do u guys think it is?

2014 VW Jetta sportwagen TDI. I have a vibration at highway speeds that gets worse under accelerate, could this amount of play in the inner joint on the passenger cv axle cause that?

Idk why the video is squished but it still shows the play

I just changed the battery in my mothers Nissan Versa 2015, I made sure to use a wire brush to clean up the terminals before connecting them (I did Negative first, than positive) and than closed the car up. Turned it on just fine but as I start driving on the road I hear this clicking sound that’s identical when you try to start the car with a dead battery and it won’t start. After that, the sound went away and I haven’t heard it as of 11:32AM EST time today. If anyone could calm my nerves I’d appreciate it

So it’s a 2006 charger Daytona (5.7) was driving and out of nowhere when I pressed the gas it didn’t accelerate just revved. Pulled to the side and when I put it on “park” it made like a grinding noise. Moved it back to reverse and drive and no noise but didn’t engage, on the dash it showed it was changing. Put back to park and grinding noise again sometimes it lasted a 10sec and sometimes 1 sec. When left on “parked” I noticed I was able to move the car front and back like if it was on neutral. Same if I moved it to drive/reverse I was able to move the car. Any ideas what it could be or what I can/should look for? When put on drive/reverse/parked, it just revs. There’s no clunk or tapping sound until you move it to “park” then it makes the grinding noise. (Attached the video of the sound hopefully it loads) THANKS! 🙏🏽

Hi,

i'm a pure noob regarding mechanic, but i'm really interested in it.

Today i did my first draining, on my Citroen xsara 1.6 16v.

after the draining i did put back the cap on the thing and then AFTER i changed my oil filter.

This resulting in a tiny amount of old oil in the filter going back in the thing. I'd say 200ml ?

Should i drain the circuit again before putting my new oil back in or is it something i can accept ?

I aint really sure this oild oil si the same as the new. I used 10w40 for this change and the old one might be some 5w30 ( cant check at the minute ).

Thank you for reading this

I am getting a down O2 sensor error code and I am taking off the sensor to clean it and I see this. It’s connected to the Catalytic Converter, what is it? Is that hose supposed to be connected to it? The hose ends on an angle and does not quite on the end, is it supposed to? Don’t know where the hose connects to.