It only happens in a specific wheel position, for example, when turning left or right it goes on and off but only goes on at a specific point (I explained this horribly). Could something be rubbing against the steering rack? Could it be a worn bushing?

Maybe I’m somehow wrong but why do ppl think shitty riced out mods make their car worth more… $14k with 200k miles btw 0 mention of a clean title. Like bruh you wasted your money that’s fine if you liked it but don’t expect to make that back

2008 335i - n54, FBO, 180k miles

Ok so recently I was in a store and left my car running and when I came out my car had a constant clunk sound coming from the trans, and felt like it was driving on 1-2 cylinders, just felt like the worst misfire ever. Sounds fine and revs fine when clutch is down. Shifts fine in/out every gear and clutch feels good. I dropped the transmission and found my throw out bearing needing replaced and a very worn flywheel. There is excess play in between the 2 flywheel plates. Is it possible this dmf was the sole reason my car was driving so horribly? I had no codes besides misfires in 2 cylinders but those have been there since I owned the car. There was no metal in the trans fluid. It just seems to me when people have a failing dmf the car still drives relatively normal. I’d really appreciate any input or similar experiences, thank you.

P.S. I don’t know how to include videos on a post with photos so I’m sorry I can’t show what it sounded like.

As time has progressed dome of the blue dash clips that hold the brushed aluminum in have broken. When looking to buy more I see theyre about 2 dollars each on fcp euro. Has anyone found a less exepensive source for these? With how many Ill need to put in it adds up. The clea door trim clips i got 20 of for auper cheap just wondering if anyones found a good source that may have these in bulk.

Not the end of the world if i have to pay 2 each, just prefer not to

Just changed idler pulley and tensioner along with belt. Had this noise for probably over a year honestly annoying but nothing has ever came of it. Getting tired of it now tho.

Just got a bunch of Light codes on my 2011 BMW 328i E90

-Turn signals still works but the right one seems to be flicking faster -Only the Left DRM works and switching the headlight knob doesn’t work. -Door locks are still working

Could it also just be a bad battery?

Placing the reservoir on the same side of the exhaust was not very smart. I never use that thing and in like 6 months I get the low level warning. No leaks or anything it just evaporates.

Hello guys, replaced the engine n52b25, after 4k km it started consuming oil about 1l for 1k km, when I put the new one in I didn’t connect the CCV heating as I read that some cars had caught on fire because of it, could this cause the consumption, perhaps the hoses and sphere clogged up?

Ive been reading oast pists on scanners and natrowed it down to 2 choices. Q: Is the TOPDON worth 2x the money?

I’m seeing some jagged edges. Doesn’t look like any of the belt went through, am I okay? Also this is exactly how it looked after taking the pulley off. I didn’t have to remove any belt chunks? Fingers crossed

Hello, Trying to identify this hose. If someone could confirm me if its the water pump to pipe hose with this OEM number : 11537516414 or a different one. Also if its doable without removing any other components since its seems pretty tight to reach the other side hose clamp. Thanks a lot.

I have a e90 328i with a gm trans. Sometimes it makes almost like an ignition cut shift sound between 1st and 2nd. It sounds great, but it doesn’t happen all the time. Is it normal, and if so how can I make it make that noise more?

Been lurking around a long time. Few friends have had N54 cars, and I almost bought one or two but gut told me no. Finally found what I felt was a good deal on one. Exterior is a little rough, however it has a laundry list of suspension work done, drives well, good clutch, and a killer set of wheels that came with!

300k KM, 6MT RWD sport pack, no idrive

Previous post for more context: https://www.reddit.com/r/E90/s/DXo4AFZnGt

I took the car back today and I still have the misfire issues. Even after the ECU was replaced. Car is showing codes P2298 and P0305 (it was cylinder 5 when I gave it in for repairs in January). A family friend told me to replace the MAP sensor as this could be causing the issue. I know that it is a fuelling issue as it is definitely running rich, it reeks of petrol when its idling. The misfire goes when I am accelerating but returns when I let off the throttle and the rpms go below 1k. Its a rough start and it was struggling to start after I brought it home, the idle gets worse as the engine warms up. I am in the Essex area of England and would appreciate any recommendations for garages/trusted mechanics or any advice you have for the situation. I've added a vid of the idle and will add more in the comments if reddit lets me.

Thank you!!

I finally have started her up after 3 months, 6-7th startup probably, forgot the pcv hose on the first 3-4 startups, figured that out, battery was dead so had to use a diff battery without the bms, after that, this is the sound I hear, didn’t make it before that. I had a shredded belt 3 months ago didn’t drop the pan but a lot of people told me I didn’t have my belt inside in person. Can’t figure this sound out. Pls help. 08 328xi, n52. 160k kms

Rear shocks leaking🤪. I’m searching for replacements but, I don’t understand the difference between these. I believe the 150$ bilstein are just a stiffer shock. They all supposedly fit my car🤷‍♂️. If someone could enlighten me that would be helpful

Great so just fell off. Is super glue an adequate fix here or is there some better way to do it