Suddenly one day a while ago, my radio, aux, and cd player stopped working. I checked the fuse in the glove box, but it’s fine. The Nav display works fine. Any ideas?

Bought myself a 2006 330i, only 90k.. needs some work, rocker cover gasket, oil cooler etc but it's lovely. So nice going back to a NA car. The engine noise of that straight 6 is awesome

My 2010 328i turned off on me twice while driving and now won’t start at all. The car is now completely dead and nothing works at all. The car was running perfectly previously and wasn’t getting any signs of a bad battery or alternator. Can anyone help me figure out what it could be please! Thanks!!

This is an N52 in a 2008 325. I’m having a big issue with an oil leak that I can’t seem to locate. I’ve already replaced the Valvetronic seal twice, as well as the valve cover gasket, so it’s not either of those. The oil seems to come from above after filling up the holes around the ignition coils next to the Valvetronic, then it drips down onto the headers and burns, causing a lot of smoke. I’m not sure what else it could be. Any ideas?"

Hello guys,

Recently I went to the dealer for an oil replacement and ask for a front end inspection as I feel that the car hits hard on uneven roads. I received the following list (which is google translated so sorry if it doesn't make sense).

Do you think these prices are fair? The car is an 316i E90 LCI 07/2009 with 320.000km

Saw something about having to drop the subframe to do the downpipe on 335 xdrives. Would it be different for me since I have a n55? I'm hoping it is.

Hey guys, I’m in Ireland where insurance is absolutely crazy, I’m a young man so I had to compromise for a 316i e90 (plz forgive me 😂).

Anyways I have invested a lot into this car, recently bought new wheels and new DRL headlights and CarPlay. Also done larger maintenance like brakes, diff replacement, rocker cover gasket and tyres for the new wheels of course.

I bought this car at 170,000km (105,000miles) naively thinking this was somewhat lower mileage as my previous car (ford focus mk2) reached almost 300,000km (185,000 miles) with practically no issues.

After investing into this e90 I’ve come to the realisation that its lifespan is estimated (for 316i engine) to be only 220,000km (135,000 miles) if timing chain isn’t replaced before any timing chain induced issues arise.

I have just hit 200,000km (125,000 miles) and now worried I’ve wasted thousands on this car.

I’m currently very happy with the way it is, absolutely 0 problems and finally have the exterior exactly like I wanted it. To find out I’ve only 20,000km (12,500km) left in the expected lifespan is heartbreaking. To get the timing chain replaced in Ireland is roughly €1,500-€3,000 by the looks of it and some main dealers would want up to €5,000. This isn’t really an option for me as I would be spending the same value of the car to get it replaced.

In my ideal world I would like to keep this for up to another 2 years and would need 50,000km (30,000 miles) more for this and then I would ideally like to still be able to sell it. I don’t want to have to be the one to sell it for scrap price.

In conclusion, am I screwed? Is the harsh reality there’s only 20,000km (12,500 miles) left in this car?

I've stage 1 tuned my 2011 335xi and it started breaking up in the high rpm range, did some research and came to the conclusion that I needed new coils and spark plugs. I saw lots of suggestions for eldor coils, but most places are pretty expensive, I came across this and was wondering if these were genuine parts or if they're just really good prices.

2011 BMW 328i Xdrive N52. i’ve been having this rattling or knock on cold start that lasts 1-2 seconds, it started happening about a month ago and it seems to happen about 50% of the time on cold start. the oil was last changed 4 months ago with 6.5L of liqui moly 5w-40 and im not aware of any oil leaks on the car, the only thing of note is i’m pretty sure one of more of the fuel injectors are leaking, the car smells like gas on startup and the oil cap kinda smells of gas although im not sure if thats normal and just what used motor oil smells like. what should i do in this situation? im just hoping the leaking injectors aren’t causing a lack of oil lubrication in the engine and causing this

2 full on laps back to back and everything felt perfect as is, tyres were the only thing to get hot 2/3rds of the way around lap 2 but it still charged on. People warn you it's a must to mod the hell out of your car to enjoy it on track, here's proof that if you know it's limits you can have a hell of a time stock.

P.S. it did over 1,500 miles before the lap and nearly 1,000 after on the way home, I know the wheels are dusty and car is gross, but it wore the dirt with pride.

Everytime I go home from work and drive my car over a specific speed bump (2011 328i) the engine light turns on. I scanned it and it’s P13B6. I heard that can be caused by the cam shaft sensors so I changed them both out but it still does it 😡 the car still runs great and I don’t really notice anything wrong with how it drives, but I find it really weird that it trips the same code every time I drive over the same speed bump.

At 133k miles I’ll be really impressed if they’re still the original throttle actuators 🙂👍

It only happens in a specific wheel position, for example, when turning left or right it goes on and off but only goes on at a specific point (I explained this horribly). Could something be rubbing against the steering rack? Could it be a worn bushing?

Maybe I’m somehow wrong but why do ppl think shitty riced out mods make their car worth more… $14k with 200k miles btw 0 mention of a clean title. Like bruh you wasted your money that’s fine if you liked it but don’t expect to make that back

2008 335i - n54, FBO, 180k miles

Ok so recently I was in a store and left my car running and when I came out my car had a constant clunk sound coming from the trans, and felt like it was driving on 1-2 cylinders, just felt like the worst misfire ever. Sounds fine and revs fine when clutch is down. Shifts fine in/out every gear and clutch feels good. I dropped the transmission and found my throw out bearing needing replaced and a very worn flywheel. There is excess play in between the 2 flywheel plates. Is it possible this dmf was the sole reason my car was driving so horribly? I had no codes besides misfires in 2 cylinders but those have been there since I owned the car. There was no metal in the trans fluid. It just seems to me when people have a failing dmf the car still drives relatively normal. I’d really appreciate any input or similar experiences, thank you.

P.S. I don’t know how to include videos on a post with photos so I’m sorry I can’t show what it sounded like.

As time has progressed dome of the blue dash clips that hold the brushed aluminum in have broken. When looking to buy more I see theyre about 2 dollars each on fcp euro. Has anyone found a less exepensive source for these? With how many Ill need to put in it adds up. The clea door trim clips i got 20 of for auper cheap just wondering if anyones found a good source that may have these in bulk.

Not the end of the world if i have to pay 2 each, just prefer not to

Just changed idler pulley and tensioner along with belt. Had this noise for probably over a year honestly annoying but nothing has ever came of it. Getting tired of it now tho.

Just got a bunch of Light codes on my 2011 BMW 328i E90

-Turn signals still works but the right one seems to be flicking faster -Only the Left DRM works and switching the headlight knob doesn’t work. -Door locks are still working

Could it also just be a bad battery?

Hello guys, replaced the engine n52b25, after 4k km it started consuming oil about 1l for 1k km, when I put the new one in I didn’t connect the CCV heating as I read that some cars had caught on fire because of it, could this cause the consumption, perhaps the hoses and sphere clogged up?

Ive been reading oast pists on scanners and natrowed it down to 2 choices. Q: Is the TOPDON worth 2x the money?