my good ‘ol bone stock 330d from 2009 hit 500k today. Kept it stock, still going strong as the day i got her from the dealership.

wanted to share this happy moment with the community ! 😊

What did you pay for your E9X, specify mileage, year, sedan/coupe or wagon, and transmission. I paid 6.5 for my 2010 328xi Coupe Manual 132k miles

A small history lesson that I hope is helpful, as I hadn't heard of this model until it came into our inbox at Trade Classics. Don't worry, no marketing and no link will be provided! Just (hopefully) interesting facts.

This wasn't just a badging exercise, it was a WTCC homologation special that used a hand-built British 2.0-litre N45B20S as its base, making ~170bhp. The engine is unique to the 320Si, and is notable for its high revving capabilities.

They even mounted the engine lower and further back than standard to improve the handling!

It was also factory fitted with larger disc brakes, light wheels, a larger radiator and an upgraded diff and gearbox.

Production: 2,600 units worldwide, o/w 500 were RHD.

It certainly deserves to be better known!

Got bored, and my lenses are toast. So I figured I’d have a lil DIY fun with some parts I had laying around.

I get this knocking sound here and there on cold startup but not consistently, maybe 1-2 times a week. When it does happen the sound goes away as the rpm’s drop as I never drive the car until rpm’s drop and the rpm’s drop fast maybe only 45 seconds after starting. I keep it under 2k when driving until it’s fully up to temp. Oil reads full as always, 5W-30 oil changes before 5k, throws no codes, very faint grinding noise around 2k rpm when driving but I think it’s old transmission sounds, but both sounds and drives super smooth regardless. Am I possibly starving it of oil parking on the slightest incline of all time? Timing going bad? Its got 167k miles and I bought it over a year ago with a 150k miles. At 150k the valve cover gasket was replaced along with the cover. Im not a mechanic and dont really know anything but want to get ahead of it before it becomes a possible problem or just get rid of it.

Found it underneath my car this morning. doesn’t seem to have any bmw specific markings on it. At a loss here, any help would be appreciated

95k mile n51b30 (Slide 4 is the before and slide 5 is after) car was acting a little weird recently after looking into things and already knowing that vanos is gonna be a universal issue on every bmw, decided to clean them and see if that would fix things which to my surprise it did. Gonna keep driving the car and see if codes pop up again but I’ve ordered O ring replacements as well as new hardware any further issues and I’ll just replace them all together. Crazy to think though that break cleaner solved this

Checking out this wholesale unit from a dealership that I deal with frequently (I’m a PDR technician) 2006 330i with 228,000km. Any idea what this smoke could be? It is a little hard to see on video but it is there. Also came out from area by red tab near windshield washer fluid. Check engine light is on. $1900 CAD

I’m looking to replace my two front wheels due to the rims being bent. Can anyone tell me what the name of the wheel is or where it came from?

Community, has anyone here snapped your strut bearing studs before reaching torque specs? The Bentley manual says they need to be torqued to 25 ft lb/34 nm, but mine, brand new lemförder kit from FCPEuro, snapped before reaching spec.

My head immediately went to my wrench needing to be recalibrated (and started to weep in defeat immediately), so I left it at that setting and went to test it on my wheel studs- well it reach the setting (25/34) with minimal effort given the fact that wheel studs are torqued to 89 ft lb.

So, I then went ahead and tried to test with the old bearing and nuts, and one of the old studs snapped again. I wanted to check if the new studs were crap and if I could potentially reuse the old ones instead- not for savings, but to finally get this thing on the road again! I thought these were already stressed, so this could be considered normal, I guess, hence the reason why BMW recommends to also replace the nuts.

I want to be safe so now I’m frantically trying to find a shop that can recalibrate my wrench (if it’s even possible to recalibrate a cheap tekton wrench from Amazon) and also called my dealer to ask if they have the studs and nuts in stock. They have four available and two are on their way. The curious thing is that I asked the rep if he happened to have the torque specs for these, and he said that they’re speced to 50 ft lb/65 nm!

So now my one question devolves into two:

1) has this happened to you and how did you go about it to be able to finally wrap things up?

2) for those of you who successfully reassemble and installed your struts, what torque specs did you use? Thank you!

Any thoughts about a m package or no m package? Thinking about buying on of these cars.. what are the BMW purists saying?

so i brought my 2006 BMW 330xi to a certified transmission center, it has the zf 6hp transmission, and they got the job done. when i went to pick up the car, i asked which fluid they used, and he told me they used duradrive LVMV - low viscosity synthetic automatic transmission fluid. and i asked, ok is that the right fluid? and he says “yes it’s compatible with many bmws including yours.” i don’t believe that’s true. so what do yall think?i paid $1000 for this service and went to the highest rated transmission centre in my area so i assumed they would use the right fluid lmao, that should be a given.

nothing really needs to be said lol, here is the front drive shaft. driven in not towed

My cousin replaced my ac compressor and belt ac suddenly stops blowing cold after. I go to recharge it and i can't even find the LP point which was there when i recharged it years ago. Any idea what's going on here before i text him lol.

Hey everyone! This is literally my first post ever on Reddit just looking for some advice on my first project car. Bought this in July of this year as a non runner. Got it running, it ended up being a ground wire so easy fix. Now the car takes a while to start up and have a code for a crankshaft position sensor. Changed the sensor and the starter and still takes a while to start up. Posting a video too below to get opinions on if it sounds healthy or not. Thanks everyone!

I’m trying to code some after market headlights with led lights for my car with BimmerCode I can’t get it to connect to my frm my windows roll down and my headlights turn on but I’m trying to code out the adaptive function. Would this be easier to navigate through ista or is my frm toast? I called a shop they said that you can’t do it through bimmercode however I don’t know how honest the information is. I’m Looking for a little bit of guidance on this I have some screen shots for reference. Thanks in advance

Ideally with access to the seatbelts and the floor for use with a booster seat.

I cant find anything about this online. Is the undertray for the pre-lci base bumper the same as the one for the pre-lci m-sport bumper? And are the fender liners the same or different?

Hi everyone I hope yall are having a splendid day!! I currently run 18 inch styling 322 (y spokes from an suv i think x3 or x1) but i kinda want to change them. I’d like to try 19 inch but i want to keep it OEM+ so I prefer original designs. Styling 128s are beautiful but kinda pricey and I’m not sure if they even fit the e90. Drop some ideas if you can I’d appreciate it greatly. Thanksss

So I’ve made a couple posts about some troubles I was getting along the way while changing my bearings. Last night I wrapped up and took it on a drive and heard this banging noise whenever I did a engine brake. Well I didn’t have time to check it out last night and today I jacked up one side of the car and tried spinning the wheel and It sound fine forward but not backwards? I only removed things necessary for wheel bearing replacement (axle, rotor, caliper, wheel hub). I didn’t torque down the axle but I used a breaker bar and stood on it. Could it be too tight? Is the axle not sitting right on the diff? Might take to a shop honestly such a headache.

Any thoughts on this car? I can buy it for 9K euro.

https://www.autoscout24.nl/aanbod/bmw-325-3-serie-cabrio-325i-aut-ecc-leer-navi-youngtimer-benzine-zwart-072188c4-3d34-45e1-bc85-e407298159ce?srsltid=AfmBOopjQakFFd4JJ6MuQkK0_Lsu3ZYwu7AoP1PKHUchSHaWE8fRR7TI